Andy:
I would get the reinforcing kit for the a-arm brackets and
install that. IT is a
proven upgrade, and one which the factory eventually installed on all
later cars. I don't
believe the studs are prone to failure, just the various brackets.
I would also box the front diff mounts while you are at it. TRF
has a kit
(way too expensive) that is pretty stout. I cut some cardboard to the
needed shapes
and then transferred the pattern to some weld plate. I then MIG welded
in the
weld plate to box the mounts. Time will tell how well it holds up. Just
to cheap to
buy the TRF kit.
It is not OK to reuse Nyloc nuts in any sort of critical
application. The holding
power is greatly reduced once they are removed from the bolt. Besides
all your old nyloc
nuts are probably incredibly rusty. Go to a good hardware store and buy
replacements. They
will look much nicer, and will be much more reliable.
Unlike rubber, urethane bushings can be greased with plain old
axle grease. However,
if I am not mistaken most bushing vendors are supplying lithium grease
for reasons that
elude me. Something about being "water proof"?
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andy Schwarz
Sent: October 10, 2005 3:40 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: Steering & Suspension Rebuild
Some questions have come up with the rebuild on the suspension and
steering on
my 70 TR6 and I hope that I can get some advice from the List.
1. Almost all of the nuts are Nyloc. Is it ok to re-use them? Perhaps
with
some blue Loctite? Or, should they be replaced?
2.The new bushings are poly and are on order with British Parts NW. I
have
heard that they should be pre-loaded to help prevent squeaks once
everything
is back together and is off the jack stands and on the wheels. I am not
sure
how you would do that as everything is disassembled. Also, the engine
is out
of the car and hence no weight to apply. (I had to chain the frame to
the
floor in order to gain enough counterforce to compress the spring pan in
order
to remove the spring). Or, does one lubricate the bushings before
install?
And, if so, what should be used?
Everything that can be taken apart is off or in the process of removal.
Therefore, I can get at the lower rear A arm mounting brackets and weld
on
reinforcements. (I can see that there have been previous attempts at
repair).
Any thoughts on replacing the 'inner fulcrum bracket' - the one that
joins the
A arm to the bracket which is welded to the frame? I wonder if the two
threaded studs are prone to failure.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Andy
70 TR6
Renton, WA
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