Vance,
I'm just a shade tree grease ape (too big to pass for a monkey) and here are
some things to also ponder:
Do you have a fair amount of oil around your filler cap? I would expect
an older motor (if that's the case) to have ring wear and some "blow-by". I
once read a 327 Chevy that puffs smoke between shifts mic's out to the
precise amount of wear, best for high rpm's. Just loose enough to spin like
crazzy.
I think it depends on how you use the car. If you drive sanely only on
Sundays and don't mind the smoke, start putting together the plans and parts
you'll need for a re-build in a couple years.
Your car might be smoking as you drive away from the light, but gets thinned
out by the greater volume of exhaust. A otherwise good running motor,
smoking a little from worn rings, is a good candidate for re-ringing.
Sometimes fixing only what is broke is the best way to go. If one is on a
budget, it is the difference between $300 or $1500.
If you have good, steady oil pressure, that suggests your Main Bearings are
good (and Rods). You can do the head. and re-ring the engine with only rod
bearings, in chassis. It's fast, cheap, and can make a good running car run
better. Your rod bearings should look great. If not, you weren't far from
having to tear the whole thing down anyway.
I put hardened seats and bronze guides in my TR6 head. I also ported it
according to the Competition Manual and shaved it .020. The basic porting
shown in the Manual is IMHO, easy for any experience level.
RUN WHAT YOU BRUNG!
Dick Landy got Hemi motors for $1, but had to share the benefits of his
reasearch with Chrysler. Almost in real time, the products hit the shelves
and his competition had what he had, except for anything in testing. He
complained that he would go to a local airstrip and while he was torn down
every event and had to be legal, the local hot rodder might smoke him with a
hotter cam or some other illegal piece. "I beat Landy" would be some great
bragging rights.
Run what you brung is mankind at its best.
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