Robert:
The starter SHOULD drop out after you remove the two 3/8" UNF
bolts that pass
through the starter and the bell housing. You may need to wiggle it
around a bit.
If you are referring to removing the nose of the starter itself,
I must ask -
why? You can get it rebuilt at ANY alternator/starter rebuilding shop. I
had mine
rebuilt locally for $120. It included new solenoid, new brushes, new
bearings,
new bushing, new armature, and repainting in black and silver. Can't
beat that
with a stick. I can't believe you will save any money doing it yourself.
Best of all, it works SOOOOOOOO much better now. I think all
these people
that are buying the high torque mini-starters would be just as happy
with a fresh
rebuild on the stock starter, for about 1/2 the price. Any 30 year old
starter
is going to be very tired, and I suspect people think that the design is
junk
when in fact it is just worn out.
My car is 9.6:1 CR, and it starts in well under 1 second when
cold.
Groovy.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert P Waldrop
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2004 11:11 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: TR250 starter drive removal ?
Listers,
I'm wanting to rebuild my TR250 starter and don't clearly see how to
remove
the drive. There appears to be a spring clip/spilt washer holding it in
place. Is that the key ?
Any other starter overhaul pointers appreciated if you've been there,
done
that.
Thanks, Robert
CD2531L - 68' TR250
32 Ford Roadster
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