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Frame work

To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Frame work
From: "Neil Wehmeyer" <ngwehmeyer@attbi.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2003 20:52:34 -0800
List:
Joe Davis asked a few questions about frame work.  I've recently finished
restoring the frame of my '69, and can make a few comments.
First, the gussets that TRF sells for the four lower wish bone brackets are
different from those sold by Rimmer.  The Rimmer brackets have an offset
bent into them, so that they do not interfere with the head of the bolt that
holds the wish bone to the bracket.  I had to weld a plate between the
bracket and the gusset to get enough clearance for the bolt head with the
TRF brackets.  After doing this on one side with the TRF brackets, I
received a set ( with the offset bend) from Rimmer. They worked without
modification. Be sure to look very carefully at the wish bone brackets
themselves.  All four of mine were found to be cracked, but two of the four
only noticeably after sand blasting.  If you are stripping the suspension, I
would replace the brackets also, and gusset the frame where they attach.

Second, the front wishbone bracket to steering rack gusset is easy to make
and does not cause problems with the steering rack.  The trick is that the
top of the front wish bone bracket is higher than the steering rack mount,
so you have to bend the piece you fabricate.  You can weld the piece you
make to the wish bone bracket, and then use a c-clamp to draw it down to the
steering rack bracket, then weld.

Third, my '69 also had gussets on the rear wish bone brackets, but by the
(lack of) quality of the weld, I am sure it was done by some one not at the
factory.

Forth, The felt seal you got from TRF is the same as I used. Do not cut it
down.  Soak it in gear oil for a day of so, then let it hang to drip dry.
The only thing I know of that you have to watch is when you assemble the
seal, bearing, bearing, washer, nut, you will compress the oil soaked seal.
Oil will  drip down on your nicely turned rotors.  Have a can of brake
cleaner ready, and do not spin the oily rotor onto your nice new disk brake
pads.

Once you finish with the cracked front suspension parts, you will have your
welding skills all in order.  This is good, since the differential bridge on
your car is broken too!

Neil Wehmeyer
CC26859L

P.S. I think the original purpose for the "Power Bulge"  was to make room
for SU carburetors.  The switch to ZS made it unnecessary, but cosmetic.

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