Look at this website http://www.myroadster.net/led.asp they discuss
several LED lamps , although mostly for exterior applications.
Chicago Miniature
(
http://www.chml.com/electric/display.cfm?type=led&style=LEDsDiscrete&Subst
yle=T-1_3/4White ), DialLight, and SPC all make cartridge/leaded style
LEDs the problem will be mounting them for maximum light use. I'm
looking at using the High-Intensity White with a modified panel bezel to
replace the entire lamp assembly on the instruments.
If you use LEDs make sure that they have a built in limiting resistor, or
that you use an external one. Assuming 5MA per lamp at 13 volts the
resistor should be about 2700 ohms and 1/8 watt. Other wise no limiting
resistor means a one time use really bright lamp
steve
tr6@kc4sw.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Hugh Fader
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2003 2:05 AM
To: 'Don Becker'; 'Dale'; 'jonmac'
Cc: '6Pack'
Subject: RE: Poor dash lighting
I saw some LEDs with screw in bases at Newark Electronics. www.newark.com
I
think this is called an E10 type bulb. They were colored though.
LEDtronics
is also a place that may have them.
- Hugh
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Don Becker
> Sent: Thursday, January 09, 2003 11:18 PM
> To: Hugh Fader; 'Dale'; 'jonmac'
> Cc: '6Pack'
> Subject: Re: Poor dash lighting
>
>
> Dale,
>
> Hugh is right. 14.4 Watts is probably way too much heat to
> dissipate in such
> a small housing. I guarantee the gauges wouldn't last very
> long...the 1.2
> Amps flowing through the bulb contacts combined with the heat of the
> filament would cause thermal runaway. Might work OK in Nome
> or some cold
> climate but not in Phoenix. Over time the heat will cause premature
> aging/failure.
>
> I've installed green acetate (from an arts supply store) in
> the burned out
> domes in 2 of my gauges and it seems to render the same
> original color.
> However, the brightness of the illuminated gauges is still
> not suitable for
> me. Rather than add more power and heat, I would be inclined
> to experiment
> with bright LED's (perhaps clear units). These are much more
> efficient than
> incandescent filaments.
>
> Anyone out there seen a drop in replacement? If not, I'll investigate
> designing a SSB (solid state bulb) for TR6's.
>
> Don
> '74 Mallard Blue
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>
> To: "'Dale'" <tpdwinch@yahoo.com>; "'jonmac'" <jonmac@ndirect.co.uk>
> Cc: "'6Pack'" <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 8:12 PM
> Subject: RE: Poor dash lighting
>
>
> > Hi Dale. 14.4W sounds way too high considering the stock
> bulbs are 2.2W.
> > What is the voltage rating of these bulbs? If it's not 12V,
> then the 14.4W
> > rating is not valid for autos. If it's 14.4W at 12V, then
> you'll probably
> > melt the gage.
> >
> > - Hugh
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dale [mailto:tpdwinch@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 7:17 AM
> > To: Hugh Fader; 'jonmac'
> > Cc: '6Pack'
> > Subject: RE: Poor dash lighting
> >
> >
> > Hugh
> >
> > Just to throw this into the mix. Recently purchased, but
> haven't used
> yet,
> > a pair of the screw in type bulbs from Radio Shack. These
> are rated at
> 14.4
> > w. At that time I hadn't given much thought to how close to
> the plastic
> > domes these would come to. Has any one tried these bulbs?
> >
> > Dale
> >
> > Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net> wrote:
> >
> > Jonmac,
> >
> > My TR6 has 2.2W screw-in bulbs for the instruments. Are
> these the same
> > as in
> > your saloon? I guess not, because you say you replaced
> 5W with 10W
> > bulbs.
> > Anyway, do you have a source for these?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Hugh Fader
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
> > > Behalf Of jonmac
> > > Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 3:40 AM
> > > To: OkgobeatsaII@aol.com
> > > Cc: 6Pack
> > > Subject: Re: Poor dash lighting
> > >
> > >
> > > Brandon Avery wrote:
> > > i am an 18 year old college student in texas. i
> > > recently cleaned out
> > > my garage and found the family dormant triumph under the
> > > endless pile of
> > > junk. with help from a british car shop, i restored it and it
> > > is now in
> > > great
> > > condition. i was awarded this terrific find in the form of a
> christmas
> > > p resent.
> > > Here is my question. Is there any way to increase the
> > > lighting power
> > > in the dash instruments, or is that another great quality we
> > > can credit to
> > > the great lucas electronics? thanks everyone for your help.
> > >
> > > Brandon
> > > Going back to the days when Triumphs were new, lighting
> > > quality on secondary
> > > instrumentation was less than ideal - and that was when
> > > everything was clean
> > > and new and the rheostat was turned to full power!
> > > By now, your instruments will have blackened bulbs and dirty
> > > glasses on the
> > > inside. The plastic window on top of the instrument through
> > > which the light
> > > shines may also have yellowed as well? I cleaned this (a bit)
> > > with warm
> > > soapy water and a cotton bud. I've refurbished all the
> > > instruments on both
> > > my Triumph saloons with higher power bulbs 10 watts instead
> > > of 5 watts,
> > > cleaned the inside of the glasses and repla c ed the 'O' rings
> > > between the
> > > bezel and instrument itself.
> > > I now have brighter secondary instrument lighting (which
> > > still casts shadows
> > > as it always did) but the 'power' of the "black lighting" for
> > > speedo and rev
> > > counter is outstanding. Well worth the effort.
> > >
> > > Jonmac
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> ------------
> --
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> > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
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