Hi Charlie,
Shouldn't be too big a problem. Don't be afraid to remove the manifolds
if it makes access easier for you. It's not a bad job. Just be sure to
have a new "correct style" gasket for your intake manifold on hand and
torque the manifolds to spec upon reinstallation.
You should probably disconnect the battery where you will be working in
the starter area.
1. Pretreat the area with a penetrant like PB Blaster.
2. You might try drilling the fitting out a bit at a time until you just
reach the threads. Then peel the remaining threads out with a scratch awl
or similar tool.
3. You could also use a pneumatic body saw with a small blade to slice
the fitting lengthwise then peel it out similarly with a small chisel or
awl.
4. Sometimes when all you have left is a very small bit of threads left,
heating with a torch will separate the threads from the threaded hole.
5. Chase the threads when done if you are able.
6. Flush the cooling system through this hole to remove any drill
filings.
Good luck,
Jay Welch Abington, MA
1971 TR6 Project, 1973 TR6 Driver, 1989 Mustang GT donor car to FFR Cobra
Kit
Member Cape Cod British Car Club @
http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
On Sat, 20 Apr 2002 22:32:43 -0800 Charles Shaw
<charlie.shaw@acsalaska.net> writes:
> Listers,
> Just when things are going well and we finally have streets with
> asphalt
> something goes wrong. Just as a short explanation, here in the
> frozen
> north, Alaska, many people use an electric recirculating heater to
> keep
> both the fluid mixture and the engine block above freezing in the
> winter.
> The PO had installed such a pump on my vehicle and I have replaced
> all
> hoses and removed this device. Heated garage works better and not
> driving
> it from November to May also helps.This heater used standard heater
> hose to
> "Y" from the front manifold hose to the heater and then to the
> coolant
> drain hole on the right side of the engine above the starter. This
> is my
> problem. The fitting screwed into this hole was like a pipe nipple.
> When I
> placed a socket on the hex portion the threaded pipe section broke
> off even
> with the block. Has anyone tried to remove anything like this before
> and if
> so how. I am considering one of the extraction tools for broken
> studs but
> this is an open pipe about 3/8" ID (opening) and 1/2" threaded OD. I
> am
> open to any suggestions before I try the drill and tap method. I
> also have
> a dreadful feeling I am going to have to remove the intake and
> exhaust
> manifolds to get at this problem.
>
> Just for a reference in the Bently book pg. 242 section 26.10.01
> shows
> where the problem is. Also does anyone know the size and thread
> pitch on
> the plug that should be in this hole.
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
> Charles Shaw
> 75 TR6
> CF39093UO (snow and ice gone by May 1, hoping to be out on the road)
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