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Re: A-type overdrive

To: sue & bob <kraeuter@erols.com>
Subject: Re: A-type overdrive
From: Rob Pennington <robp@ncsa.uiuc.edu>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 21:42:49 -0600
Hi,

My car was originally non-OD and I put in A-type in it a couple of years 
ago and just had to go through it this past couple of weeks to fix a couple 
of problems.  I got back from the test drive (successful, yippee!) and saw 
your note.

I've just played "fix the OD" on the A-type in my car.  An invaluable 
resource is the set of articles on the A-type by Nelson Riedel is under the 
technical section on the Buckeye Triumphs home page
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org

Yes, you will need to create or buy an OD harness, get a relay, add the 
switch on the steering column and get the 90 degree speedo adapter if it 
isn't already on the transmission. I made my own harness, which wasn't all 
that hard to do. Running the wires down the steering column from the switch 
was the hardest part of the electrical work.  My OD relay is mounted next 
to the other two relays under the hood and fed power from the topmost fuse, 
which was unused.  I jumpered power to that fuse from the next fuse 
down.  I would use a new clutch cross shaft unless it was very clear that 
the hole for the taper pin was still round and not oblong (got one of those 
from another transmission).  Check that the synchro cups have ~.030 of 
clearance to be sure they are still good, btw.

It probably wouldn't hurt at all to replace the front and rear seals while 
you have it on the bench.  I don't know off hand how difficult this would 
be without disassembling the transmission but you might be able to figure 
this out from the web page above.  As for the other seals, I'd do the top 
cover seal and the fork O-rings, check and clean the filter under the pump 
at the bottom of the transmission, replace the drain plug and fill plug 
with the magnetic plugs.  They are the same size/interchangeable and the 
magnetic plugs are *much* easier to remove since they have a hex bolt head 
so a socket will do the job nicely for removing them again later.

Check the transmission mounts and replace if they look a little old.

If you can, set it up for benchtesting before you put it in your car.  When 
I put mine back in for testing, I disconnected the drive shaft and used the 
engine for the "bench testing" phase.  I had to replace and shim the 
accumulator spring (new from TRF, this is pretty standard) to get the 
pressure up to the right level.   If you need to try to figure out what is 
happening with the hydraulics, I recently bought a gauge from:

>From: TRICARB@aol.com
>Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2002 14:28:12 EST
>Subject: Re: A-type OD pressure gauge?
>To: robp@ncsa.uiuc.edu
>
>Hi Rob,
>     Yes I still sell them.  They are glycerin filled [no needle flickering]
>with an adapter to fit over your operating valve.  They are $55.50 including
>shipping.  We take Visa or MC.  Our phone number is: 541-895-5576.
>     Bill Bolton, Bolt-On Healeys

Good luck!

Rob
74 TR6 daily driver

At 08:33 PM 3/15/2002, sue & bob wrote:
>I've just acquired an A-type O/D tranny for my TR6!  It came out of a
>TR250 I found at a salvage yard.  I have no idea of its operating
>condition, but I've removed the top cover to inspect it and it appears
>to be fine.  The gear oil looked clean, there's no bits of metal or
>broken gear teeth.  The synchronizer cups look brand new.  The clutch
>fork taper pin was broken, as was another bolt that the PO installed
>thru the front of the fork to solve a previous taper pin failure.
>  Perhaps that's why he stopped driving it.  Other than that, and the
>outside of the case being filthy dirty from road grime, it looks to be
>in working shape.
>
>Now that its on the bench with the top cover removed, what should I do
>to it?  I'm planning to replace the clutch shaft bushes, rebuild the top
>cover using new o-ring seals on the selector shafts, test the swtiches
>mounted to the top of the cover, and of course replace the gaskets for
>the top cover, front end cover, countershaft cover, and solenoid.
>
>I assume replacing the O/D adapter plate gasket will require a rebuild -
>is this correct?  I don't want to rebuild it if its operational, but I
>want to do what makes sense.  Should I replace the front and rear oil
>seals?  How big of a job are they?  Is there anything else that should
>be replaced while its out of the car.
>
>By the way, my car was originally non-O/D.  I assume I'll have to get an
>upper O/D harness and mount a relay in the engine compartment.  I was
>going to install it next to the other two relays next to the wiper
>motor.  Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
>TIA,
>
>Bob Kraeuter
>'72 TR6  CC76363L

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