Hi Dick,
Following up on your advice, there was some play in the play in the clutch
arm and I have the transmission out of the car. It turned out that the hole
that the fork pin goes through in the clutch shaft was oblate, allowing
some extra free play. Time for a new shaft. Problem #1
Thanks for the note. It looks like I'm going to have some fun since it
looks like I have multiple problems. There have been several good
suggestions. Including one from Pete Chadwell that I check the magnetic
drain plug for bits and pieces. There weren't any pieces but the gear oil
was very, very golden. Problem #2
Following up on the "gold" flowing out of the drain hole, I pulled the top
cover to find out more about it. There is a *lot* of play in the gears on
the mainshaft (about 1/4 inch) so I would guess that one of the brass
bushings has been "liquidated". I'll have to pull the transmission apart
to look at it. In the meantime, I'm going to put a spare transmission
until I can look at it and get the necessary bits and pieces.
I've also been reading and re-reading the info that Nelson has posted on
Buckeye Triumphs. Good stuff! And I'm going to need it!
I have to wonder just a little bit about it since it was supposed to have
been completely rebuilt this past summer before I bought it. Maybe this
was just a bit of bad luck.
Rob
74 TR6, daily dribbler
At 01:47 PM 2/15/2002, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
>Rob---Nelson's reply covers the options nicely, and his Buckeye website
>illustrations are top notch. I will add here what I've found that can
>sometimes determine if the fork pin is broken, without taking out the
>tranny for inspection. It goes like this.
>
>Take out the SC pushrod clevis pin and pull hard the clutch shaft
>operating arm towards the rear of the car, by hand. This will load up
>the internal linkage in one direction. Next, gentley push the clutch arm
>towards the front of the car, till you feel it bump into solid ground.
>All you're doing here is removing designed-in accumulated play. IF you
>can now push the clutch shaft farther forward, with effort, you may be
>feeling and overcoming the resistance of a broken fork pin. This extra
>movement can be 1/8" or more, as measured from the tip of the arm. If it
>feels solid with no further movement, My bet would be accumulated play
>down in the pedal box.
>
>Given that you have recently replaced the gear box, I am ruling out the
>"crunch" you feel when shifting into first and second gear is not
>synchro related.
>
>Dick Taylor
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