The only negative I have on the tube conversion is the lack of a lower
bump stop to limit rear suspension travel. (The original design uses the
arm of the lever shock against a conical bump to achieve lower travel
limit.) The axle can possibly contact the frame, or the spring unseat
from it's perch during a large deflection of roll on the kits I have
seen.
A shock with the correct travel could fix this, but might result in a
'clunk' when the shock bottomed........ not to mention the question of
whether the shock is designed to bottom without failing prematurely. I
recommend installing rear sway bars to limit roll deflection on the cars
using these conversions, or devising an alternative bump stop.
I still like the kits, I just think they need a bit of polish to be
really professionally done.
IMHO of course, Jim
PS try Scott at Team Triumph for his price on quality hubs. 330-392-7176
I don't like to recommend do-it yourself attempts to rebuild these
(without the proper tools), since so many outer hub flanges are being
trashed.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
To: "KTnKT" <ktnkt@cape.com>
Cc: "6 Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2002 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: Tube shock conversion and hub rebuilders
> Kevin---Before you go to the expense of rebuilding the rear hub(s),
try
> switching the clicking wheel in question with one from the front.
> It's my experience that wh U-joints go bad they start off by making
> their sounds only when flexed, like with a load in the trunk, or
loaded
> from a weight shift. Later on they will vibrate enough to make it
> obvious.
>
> One would think that a tube shock kit that uses the same mounting
points
> as the stock lever shocks wouldn't cause additional stress. I'm
waiting
> for Mitch to tell me he likes his, then I'll do mine!
>
> Dick T.
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