Bob and others
I have a '74 TR6 that a prior owner fitted with a Monza dual exhaust. The
system is too loud for my liking but I do like the look of the four pipes
out the back. Any recommendations as to how to "quiet" down the system?
Rick Ray
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: "Peter Macholdt" <vze2846b@verizon.net>
Cc: "6pack list" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: SS Sports Exhaust system from Rimmer Bros
> Hi,
>
> Could you elaborate on how the header did not fit? Seeing that the
> gracious person from Rimmer was able to make the unit fit your car, it
> would be nice to know what sort of effort is involved in making it fit.
>
> By way of example, I'll relate my experience with a Monza cheapo header
> that I purchased a while back ('94 Carlisle). It was a Monza header for
> the twin pipe TR6 system. When I test fitted the unit to the engine, it
> bolted right up! However, when I went to install my Cannon manifold for
> the DCOE40's - there was interference between the "tabs" on the manifold
> and the header exhaust flange. A bit of grinding with my Makita 4" grinder
> took care of that. Note: I removed metal from the header, not the intake
> manifold.
>
> I then tried to fit up the rest of the system. Low and behold! The
> collector flange was weled on cockeyed and there was no way to install the
> "adapter" from the collector to the twin pipes. It turns out that the
> header collector was welded with an "up" angle such that it hit the frame.
> And I'm not talking "close". This was way off - the adapter pipe literally
> would have been inside the passenger footwell.
>
> Well - Makita to the rescue again. This time, I judiciously ground down
> the collector welds and removed the collector. I then "tacked" it in place
> and re-fit. Once I got everything re-aligned properly, I had my expert
> welder reweld the collector so that it won't leak. Note: this operation is
> fairly difficult because you need to be really careful about "burning
> through" the header material. It's very thin!
>
> Oh - and then I tried to "port match" the header to the cylinder head. I
> gave up on that one. The primary tubes of the Monza header are welded in
> on the surface that mates to the cylinder head. Careful measurement showed
> that there was not much metal to grind away there to get a really great
> match - and there is no weld "fillet" on the backside, so if you try to
> grind much metal away here, you would probably cut through the pipes, not
> a good thing.
>
> So - I spent probably 5 or 6 hours getting "fitment" and then another hour
> or so welding and then another hour re-painting. And this is for a
> mediocre header.
>
> Last point - I also found that the two end tubes of the header interfere
> with the "lower" stud/clamp/nut setup. They interfere so much that I was
> considering denting the header to get things to fit. Seeing that I went
> through all this effort to fit the header, I figured why make the thing
> worse than it really is? So, I wound up using a 3/8 "cap screw" (with an
> allen head) instead of the stud/nut arrangement. This winds up being
> really easy to do and looks sort of "high tech"...
>
> See why I've stated "get a good header"?
>
> I'm glad your exercise worked out okay.
>
> Good luck!
> rml
> TR6's
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