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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*\[Shop\-talk\]\s+The\s+air\s+saga\s+continues\.\.\.\s*$/: 41 ]

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1. [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: eric@megageek.com; Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 22:25:01 -0400; Well, after a brief day of not bothering with the new air lines (because I had a huge tree to remove) I'm back to getting the new air lines squared away. When we last left this saga, I had some succe; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00224.html (8,243 bytes)
2. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>; Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 23:00:16 -0400 (EDT); I can't see Time Slime working. It's too heavy. In order to seal a tire with it, it has to be rotated at 20-30 mph for a while shortly after application. When I use it to seal studded ice-racing tire; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00225.html (7,151 bytes)
3. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>; Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 23:18:20 -0400; I'm not saying this is a good idea, but I do know they make a version for wheelbarrow tires. I've never been able to get my wheelbarrow up to 20 mph. -Steve Trovato strovato@optonline.net ___________; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00226.html (7,854 bytes)
4. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: Douglas Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>; Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 23:33:40 -0400; The surplus Slime would probably get blown into the regulator and tools, which could not be good... Doug _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.te; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00227.html (7,432 bytes)
5. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: BJNoSHOV8 <bjshov8@tx.rr.com>; Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 22:40:15 -0500; Our shop used to have a product for radiators- a small package of powder that you poured in the radiator to seal leaks. I'm not sure how this material worked or what activated it, but you could disso; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00228.html (7,973 bytes)
6. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 21:37:49 -0700; Never heard of it used that way, but it seems to me that sodium silicate (water glass) would be closer to what you want than Slime. Cap off all the outlets (don't want it in your quick connects or re; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00232.html (7,593 bytes)
7. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair1948@cox.net>; Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 08:22:38 -0400; (because I had a the bigger leak(s) in it. down completely in A couple of things you can try: 1. you might want to try addind some die (like for AC system) to the line then connecting air to it and l; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00236.html (11,714 bytes)
8. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>; Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 09:18:21 -0400 (EDT); If it were me, I'd put a valve on the compressor outlet that gets shut off when I'm not out there and call it a day. Mark _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Don; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00239.html (8,194 bytes)
9. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: <bjshov8@tx.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 10:26:33 -0400; My father has a pretty big compressor and tank at his shop, I'd guess at least 100 gal. He shuts the power off to the compressor at night, the next morning he turns it back on and it comes up to pres; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00241.html (8,143 bytes)
10. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: Larry Spector <lspector@gmail.com>; Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 09:58:23 -0400; This is what I did. My system has slow leaks, but not enough that I worry about it. -Larry _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00242.html (8,159 bytes)
11. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: old dirtbeard <dirtbeard@pacbell.net>; Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 10:05:53 -0700 (PDT); I have a 1" ball valve at the tank outlet that I just open to pressurize the pipes when I use air and close it afterwards. Assuming the leak is not in the tank, this should address the problem, no? M; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00243.html (8,819 bytes)
12. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 11:47:58 -0700; So what type of remotely operated valve would be appropriate? I don't know much about solenoid valves, but it appears that the inexpensive "piloted" valves always have a pressure drop across the val; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00244.html (8,270 bytes)
13. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 00:20:47 -0700; Call me lazy if you like. The shop is at one end of the house, the compressor is out in the back yard at the other end. Only 50 feet if I had an outside door, but instead it's more like 200 after wa; /html/shop-talk/2011-06/msg00000.html (6,610 bytes)
14. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: Mark Andy <marka@maracing.com>; Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 23:42:27 -0400 (EDT); I have a regular old 3/4" (?? I think?) ball valve on my compressors output. If the compressor is somewhere you can't easily get to it, that obviously isn't going to work. Mark _____________________; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00245.html (9,007 bytes)
15. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: "David C." <cavanadd@frontier.com>; Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 21:47:15 -0700; Me too (or three). I just put a 3/4" ball valve on the tank discharge, and I close it off every evening before I leave the shop. I have QD fittings an most or all of my air lines and they always seem; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00246.html (8,757 bytes)
16. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: John Miller <jem@milleredp.com>; Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 22:50:19 -0700; Seems there's always going to be something that leaks a little. My experience has been that if you mount the quick-disconnects pointed down or angled below the horizontal they'll corrode and begin t; /html/shop-talk/2011-05/msg00247.html (8,504 bytes)
17. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: eric@megageek.com; Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 06:24:49 -0400; OK, here is a new idea I have for dealing with the leaks... I found an epoxy that is like a thick liquid. I was thinking to put a vacuum in the air lines (not sure of the best way to do that) then po; /html/shop-talk/2011-06/msg00001.html (9,226 bytes)
18. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: "Arvid Jedlicka" <arvidj@visi.com>; Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 06:11:51 -0500; The issue that I see is that with a vacuum you would only be able to create ... at best ... 14.7 psi at the joint. This might not be enough to push ... or suck depending on how you want to look at it; /html/shop-talk/2011-06/msg00002.html (8,763 bytes)
19. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>; Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 07:11:54 -0400; A vacuum pump? If you know someone in the air conditioning business, you might borrow one. Or, buy one from your favorite cheap tool store... http://www.2linc.com/venturi_vacuum.htm Also, something l; /html/shop-talk/2011-06/msg00003.html (7,978 bytes)
20. Re: [Shop-talk] The air saga continues... (score: 1): Author: Pat Horne <pat@hornesystemstx.com>; Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2011 07:50:30 -0500; I bought a 1" stainless steel, motor operated ball valve on eBay about a year ago. My shop has an apartment over it, which is not used all the time. I wanted to monitor for leaks at the appliances an; /html/shop-talk/2011-06/msg00005.html (9,639 bytes)

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