For cutting threads the lathe will need a threading dial. These are typically mounted on the right hand side of the carriage apron. Some are built in, some pivot on a bolt so you can disengage them w
Joe, Just curious ... you just don't cut threads and tapers any more or have converted the lathe to CNC and just let the machine does it all? Scott, For threading, you might want to check out an exam
And just thought of one more thing. For threading the lead screw needs to be reversible -- apron moves towards the chuck rather than away from the chuck -- if you want to cut "normal" right hand thre
Arvid, I think your right. When I did my apprenticeship back in the early 80's the only cnc stuff I saw was used for high volume. In the shop I worked in, we had two turret lathes for any volume part
That is what the threading dial and the documentation is for. Depending on the gearing between the lead screw and the chuck and the threads you are cutting you can engage the half nut any time, only
Not necessarily; chasing or "picking up" an existing thread on a lathe with a threading dial is (or at least was) a pretty straightforward task for the average machinist. You just get the cutting too
I agree. And even the threading dial is not strictly necessary. It doesn't work anyway, for some small group of threads. (I forget the rules offhand, but ISTR you can't use it for Whitworth threads.
I totally agree, it can be done. I think the original post was "they just chucked a new piece in and cut new threads" and my intent was to suggest why it would might be quicker to just start over. Ar
Arvid, Sorry for any confusion. In my original post I was just trying to point out that with using today's cnc equipment, it was faster for the shop to make a new part than fix the first one. With no
My recollection is that for ANY thred you can re-engage the nut on the same point that you were on the dial (eg if you were first engaged on 1 - you can always re-engage on 1). Certain threads can th
You got me wondering, so I looked it up. On a lathe with Imperial threads on the leadscrew, engaging on 1 works for any thread that has an integer number of threads in 2 (or 4 for some lathes) inche
Not a good idea if your chuck screws onto the headstock (as mine does). -- Randall _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Su
...luckily the lathe in question had a Camlock mounting (and my own lathe has a keyed taper lock mounting). _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Donate: http://www
For cutting threads the lathe will need a threading dial. These are typically mounted on the right hand side of the carriage apron. Some are built in, some pivot on a bolt so you can disengage them w
Joe, Just curious ... you just don't cut threads and tapers any more or have converted the lathe to CNC and just let the machine does it all? Scott, For threading, you might want to check out an exam
And just thought of one more thing. For threading the lead screw needs to be reversible -- apron moves towards the chuck rather than away from the chuck -- if you want to cut "normal" right hand thre
Arvid, I think your right. When I did my apprenticeship back in the early 80's the only cnc stuff I saw was used for high volume. In the shop I worked in, we had two turret lathes for any volume part
That is what the threading dial and the documentation is for. Depending on the gearing between the lead screw and the chuck and the threads you are cutting you can engage the half nut any time, only
Not necessarily; chasing or "picking up" an existing thread on a lathe with a threading dial is (or at least was) a pretty straightforward task for the average machinist. You just get the cutting too