- 1. clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: lizirbydavis@cs.com
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 13:02:30 -0500
- Hi List, I'm in the process of getting my tranny ready to install. I pulled the pin out of the fork and guess what...it was broken off! No wonder the shifting was so poor. My question is...I have ano
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00473.html (8,031 bytes)
- 2. RE: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: "Rob Christopher \(robc\)" <robc@cisco.com>
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 13:34:22 -0500
- The fork pins are available individually from TRF (I think that's where I got them). Only $1 or so each. I replaced mine two years ago and kept the original fork. Rob Hi List, I'm in the process of
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00474.html (8,668 bytes)
- 3. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 12:07:05 -0800 (PST)
- Joe--There is a taper in the clutch shaft bore to match the taper of the fork pin. It's difficult to eyeball the bore in this shaft to know how much it has ovaled. I have found that one can get a goo
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00478.html (8,531 bytes)
- 4. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: lizirbydavis@cs.com
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 15:47:29 -0500
- How much play should exist in the clutch shaft? There is an almost imperceptable "click" and a tiny unmeasurable amount of play in the fork when the pin is inserted and the fork is moved back and fo
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00483.html (9,461 bytes)
- 5. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: "Bob Fabie" <RFabie@erols.com>
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 16:07:39 -0500
- I'd recommend that you buy a new shaft and pin and reinforce it with another bolt & nut according to details in the Buckeye web site ( I took a photo of mine when I did it last year; let me know if
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00484.html (8,319 bytes)
- 6. RE: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: "Pappin,Ian" <ianp@nait.ab.ca>
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 16:13:08 -0700
- Hello folks, It has been suggested to me by a local TR owner that a permanent fix is to weld the fork to the bearing. Seems like a bad idea to me but has anyone had experience with this good or bad?
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00487.html (8,890 bytes)
- 7. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: Lizirbydavis@cs.com
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 18:47:41 EST
- I've considered welding the fork to the shaft. I too have heard that this is not such a great thing to do. I can't imagine why. Obviously it would be permanent, and the shaft would have to be removed
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00488.html (8,200 bytes)
- 8. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: "Gene Holtzclaw" <motrv8d@hotmail.com>
- Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 00:47:05 +0000
- Sounds like you've reasoned through it to me. What a consenting adult and thier lbc does is thier business. Go for it. I doubt the judges will ever catch it. _________________________________________
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00490.html (8,930 bytes)
- 9. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 17:07:41 -0800 (PST)
- Joe--Welding the shaft and fork together certainly takes care of the sheared pin syndrome, doesn't it?! A less drastic solution might be double pinning the fork to the shaft. At least this way both t
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00492.html (8,247 bytes)
- 10. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: "Richard Seaton" <rsh17@msn.com>
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 19:25:01 -0600
- Nothing wrong with it, but nothing right either. Have you ever tried cutting one with a hack saw? Even with a cutoff wheel this is a little difficult. A torch would do better. What if you need to rep
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00493.html (9,627 bytes)
- 11. RE: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: Andrew Packard <apackard@triad.rr.com>
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 22:46:24 -0500
- Exactly what my TR mechanic did with the rebuild of my standard tranny. No problems since. Clutch is very tight and responsive. Andy CD6521L Greensboro, NC --Original Message-- From: Pappin,Ian [SMTP
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00505.html (9,283 bytes)
- 12. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: Irv Korey <emanteno@attglobal.net>
- Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2003 22:24:25 -0600
- Others have mentioned that you can drill another hole in the shaft at a 90 degree angle to the fork pin and run a bolt through there. This truly works, even in racing conditions. Why bodge up the wor
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00508.html (8,909 bytes)
- 13. RE: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: "R. Ashford Little II" <ralittle2@mindspring.com>
- Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 00:01:15 -0500
- Welding is overkill and unnecessary; add the 1/4" bolt and pre-drill a small 1/8" hole opposite the taper pin. You'll never need this though since the additional bolt will prevent it ever breaking ag
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00509.html (9,551 bytes)
- 14. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: Lizirbydavis@cs.com
- Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 00:22:54 EST
- I've got the hacksaw thing down. I did it three times yesterday looking for a decent shaft. In all three trannys, the pins were sheared making removal impossible. Three out of three...seems like a de
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00511.html (7,745 bytes)
- 15. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: "Richard Seaton" <rsh17@msn.com>
- Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 07:19:27 -0600
- Dang, it thought it was hardened steel. It took me a while with a cutoff wheel. Richard I've got the hacksaw thing down. I did it three times yesterday looking for a decent shaft. In all three trann
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00517.html (7,911 bytes)
- 16. Re: clutch fork question (score: 1)
- Author: jay_welch@juno.com
- Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 08:40:43 -0500
- Just drill through the fork and push the broken taper pin through with a pin punch. Jay On Wed, 19 Feb 2003 07:19:27 -0600 "Richard Seaton" <rsh17@msn.com> writes:
- /html/6pack/2003-02/msg00518.html (8,273 bytes)
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