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1. RE: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: Dave Scarlett <Dave_Scarlett@excite.com>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 05:39:04 -0700 (PDT); I am also doing a new shop and I'm planning on in floor heat. I figure some 1/2" tubing in the floor, a hot water heater with glycol/water mix, pump and control valves. I could either use this system; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00175.html (8,281 bytes)
2. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 07:23:05 -0500; Are there any issues with Jack Stands and heavy cars over radiant heat? Just curious if you could crush a pipe? I had radiant heat when I was in Germany and it was truly comfortable Keith -- some and; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00176.html (8,684 bytes)
3. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: Mike Sloane <msloane@att.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 14:59:33 -0400; There was some lengthy discussions about the subject on either this or the Antique Tractor list last year. It seems to me that the problems you may encounter are with corrosion of the pipe in the con; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00192.html (9,162 bytes)
4. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 12:38:38 -0700; Nowadays, they use plastic (probably polyethlyne) tubes. Old Eichlers in Palo Alto used galvanized pipes, with predictble results. Or they uses copper pipes, and failed to protect them from the concr; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00193.html (9,052 bytes)
5. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Rex Burkheimer - WM" <rex@txol.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:02:36 -0500; The tradename is PEK. It appears to be widely available. It's about $1.00/ft in 300-ft rolls, which does about 500 square feet the way I was looking at it. For a shop like we are discussing, you wil; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00195.html (9,210 bytes)
6. FW: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: Gil Fuqua <gil.fuqua@cci-ir.com>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:23:44 -0500; I visited a home in Calgary, Canada this summer that had the PEK installed in the basement floor. By all accounts, it was a great heating system. The contractor/home owner gave me a tour of the 'plum; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00196.html (10,406 bytes)
7. RE: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: jmark.vanscoter@amd.com; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:47:27 -0500; When I did a search for this technology recently, I found that the generic name for the plastic tubing is PEX (meaning cross-linked polyethylene, or Poly Ethylene X-linked). Here is a very good artic; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00197.html (9,888 bytes)
8. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Rex Burkheimer - WM" <rex@txol.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 16:51:13 -0500; concrete. Good point, note taken Another good idea. I guess you could plug one end and clamp an air coupler to the other. I'm sure that tubing is rated at over 200 psi. Or cut down the regulator. //; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00198.html (9,239 bytes)
9. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: Brian Kennedy <kennedybc@mediaone.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 19:55:04 +0100; In looking around for flat cement type flooring I found Ardex Engineering that does a variety of 'filled' cement floors, as does Lightcrete. I found a company in my area, Michigan, that does this stu; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00200.html (10,105 bytes)
10. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: Martin Scarr <martins@efn.org>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 19:22:35 -0700 (PDT); I own a house with copper tubing for the radiant heat piping. It was built in the mid '60's. The only problem I've ever experienced was where a piece of steel reinforcing mesh/wire touched the pipe,; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00201.html (9,237 bytes)
11. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 21:48:18 -0500; Cross-linked poly, no doubt. For insulation. You don't want to heat the ground, you want to heat the slab. There is plenty of heavy equipment in a winery. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1970 L; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00202.html (9,669 bytes)
12. RE: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Kim Knapp" <kimknapp@vail.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 21:01:03 -0600; I had radiant in my previous shop and will have in my new home/shop. Great for lying under the floor while working on a car. You won't crush the tubing unless you put a big enough load on a jack to c; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00205.html (11,159 bytes)
13. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 23:09:03 -0500; rises. I keep hearing that forced-air is "drier", but I don't see how. If it were true, it would be a good thing for keeping our old cars from rusting. Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1970 Lotus; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00209.html (9,596 bytes)
14. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: Randall <randallyoung@earthlink.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2001 22:50:46 -0700; I don't know, but I can think of three reasons this might be sorta true: 1) The heated air coming out of the vents is warmer than the room air, hence it's relative humidity is lower than the cooler r; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00213.html (9,775 bytes)
15. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Rex Burkheimer - WM" <rex@txol.net>; Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 09:12:53 -0500; Looks to me like this would reduce heat transfer to the slab, unless you came up with just the right pressure to duplicate the expansion of the tubing under operating conditions. Even then.... /// //; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00217.html (9,214 bytes)
16. RE: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Madurski, Ronald M." <RONALD.M.MADURSKI@saic.com>; Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 11:32:01 -0400; Actually heat radiates (hence the name) in many directions. The position of the source of the radiant heat is inconsequential. Heated air will rise but since the radiant heat does not heat the air t; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00218.html (9,290 bytes)
17. RE: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Phil Ethier"<pethier@isd.net>; Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 17:56:33 GMT; I don't believe for one minute that a warmed floor slab does not heat the air in the shop. I think that a great deal of the heating effect of a warmed slab is conduction of heat to the air and the r; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00219.html (9,185 bytes)
18. RE: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Madurski, Ronald M." <RONALD.M.MADURSKI@saic.com>; Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 16:28:46 -0400; Umm, that's not what I said. The radiant HEATER does not warm the air. It warms the objects in the room which makes you feel warm. The air is warmed from coming in contact with the warm objects. Che; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00222.html (10,335 bytes)
19. RE: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: "Landaiche Kenneth (NET-BBS/Petaluma)" <ken.landaiche@nokia.com>; Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 16:20:56 -0700; Just out of curiosity, how does the water move around the system? Ken When the foundation is ready to pour, you lay out the tubing on the rebar grid with the ends sticking out so they will be exposed; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00229.html (8,925 bytes)
20. Re: building a shop - radiant heat (score: 1): Author: Richard Welty <rwelty@suespammers.org>; Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2001 19:52:10 -0400; the radiant system in our house (installed 2 years ago as a result of a fiasco with a finance company) uses the standard types of pumps that go with most any hot water system. there is a black box su; /html/shop-talk/2001-10/msg00232.html (8,666 bytes)

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