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1. Not the floor paint thread again... (score: 1): Author: "Keith Kaplan (Exchange)" <keithka@Exchange.Microsoft.com>; Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 17:47:42 -0700; So the conventional wisdom is that 2 part epoxy is the way to go, and acid prepping the surface is also a requirement. Great. Can one of the resident chemists tell me if these paints rely on their ad; /html/shop-talk/1999-07/msg00041.html (7,753 bytes)
2. Re: Not the floor paint thread again... (score: 1): Author: "R. John Lye" <rjl6n@server1.mail.virginia.edu>; Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 07:05:51 -0400; I'd worry about the acid fumes corroding any exposed metal anyway, whether you etch right up to the lift or not. Even though you use fairly dilute acid (at least compared to the reagent grade stuff t; /html/shop-talk/1999-07/msg00042.html (7,661 bytes)
3. Re: Not the floor paint thread again... (score: 1): Author: Fred Zampa <fzampa@cennet.mc.peachnet.edu>; Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 13:32:31 -0400; i have been meaning to convey my floor painting experience. now seems as good a time as ever. on advice from listers, i avoided behr one part epoxy and bought griggs two part , water based epoxy at; /html/shop-talk/1999-07/msg00043.html (8,943 bytes)
4. RE: Not the floor paint thread again... (score: 1): Author: Gil Fuqua <gfuqua@corpcomminc.com>; Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 12:56:56 -0500; I used the Griggs two-part, water-based epoxy paint and have had excellent results. It's been over a year and nothing seems to phase it. I put down two coats over an acid etched new concrete floor. A; /html/shop-talk/1999-07/msg00044.html (10,044 bytes)
5. Re: Not the floor paint thread again... (score: 1): Author: "Tony Clark" <lotus.tony@airmail.net>; Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 14:31:56 -0500; My experience with the muriatic acid etch was a mottled mess when I merely poured it on and tried to "broom" it around. I laid my hands on a humongous plastic garden sprinkler can which let me get "f; /html/shop-talk/1999-07/msg00046.html (7,136 bytes)

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