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Total 21 documents matching your query.

1. FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Lee Hart <LeeHart@LeeHart.Com>; Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 07:25:42 -0000; I didn't see anything related to this in the FAQs, and I don't see a way to get to the archives. I recently bought a house with a nice shop/garage (36x33 inside, ~16' high). It isn't yet insulated, a; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00026.html (8,900 bytes)
2. FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams); Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 07:09:00 -0500; I ran mine every 4 feet. I should have used 2 feet. My Dad did his at 3 feet. He says he should have used 2 feet. It seems like all the stuff that needs to be plugged in clusters in one spot. If you; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00027.html (9,371 bytes)
3. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Martin Scarr <martins@efn.org>; Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 06:23:35 -0700 (PDT); You didn't mention plumbing; I put a sink in my shop. It gets used all the time. Does anyone I have them 6 feet apart on one wall, 12 feet on the other. Should have gone 6 feet everywhere. As far as; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00029.html (8,570 bytes)
4. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Richard George <rkg@teleport.com>; Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 08:00:39 -0700; Ah, but you didn't get 3 phase :-) Sounds like it will do though :-) 4-6 feet is good, though you might want to think about where your benches are - its fruitless to have plugs behind/below them whe; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00030.html (12,739 bytes)
5. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: nogera@juno.com; Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 10:15:57 -0500; When I did my wifes Hobby shop I ran the power in conduit outside the sheet rock ( 42" above the floor around all four walls). This was more necessity than design as the walls were already closed up.; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00031.html (8,174 bytes)
6. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Randall Young <randallyoung@earthlink.net>; Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 10:18:43 -0700; To search the archives, go to http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=shoptalk Randall; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00033.html (8,101 bytes)
7. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: cak@dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev); Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 13:18:57 -0700; I did something very similar. The only thing you haven't mentioned is GFCI outlets - I had the same goal of having every box be easily switchable from 110 to 220, but ultimately made up several strin; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00038.html (8,596 bytes)
8. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Erik Quackenbush <erik@midwestfilter.com>; Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 16:57:45 -0500; Everything in my garage goes through a double gang (220v) GFCI breaker mounted in its own subpanel near my workbench. If you're running any 220v equipment (mig welder, air compressor, plasma cutter); /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00039.html (9,462 bytes)
9. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: cak@dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev); Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 17:15:43 -0700; I considered this. It's an expensive solution, but that's not what stopped me - a local electrician convinced me that this does not give proper (to-code) GFCI protection to the 110V legs. I don't re; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00040.html (8,420 bytes)
10. RE: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Lee Hart <LeeHart@LeeHart.Com>; Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 06:13:17 -0000; D'Oh! Yes, I did. Hey, it's all ferrous, and cast iron blows up so well. This is one reason I was planning on running 2 circuits to each outlet location. With 4 foot outlet spacing, every location on; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00049.html (15,839 bytes)
11. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Derek Harling <derek.lola@home.com>; Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 18:22:59 -0400; One of the better things I did was to put outlets on the front of the benches. That way the cord doesn't drag over the bench and the stuff on the bench. Talking hand held power tools of course. Derek; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00053.html (8,936 bytes)
12. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Derek Harling <derek.lola@home.com>; Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 18:29:45 -0400; Huh? I bet I'm not the only who doesn't understand that! Derek; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00054.html (8,560 bytes)
13. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: cak@dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev); Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 15:31:09 -0700; Use different colored outlets to distinguish the multiple circuit in a box - I used white and ivory. If you're running three circuits along a particular wall, you can get brown, too. Mark the breaker; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00055.html (8,853 bytes)
14. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Duncan120@aol.com; Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 20:59:29 EDT; << One of the better things I did was to put outlets on the front of the benches. That way the cord doesn't drag over the bench and the stuff on the bench. Talking hand held power tools of course. >>; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00056.html (8,403 bytes)
15. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Drew Rogge <drew@pixar.com>; Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 15:34:18 -0700; Have you ever found a source for reasonable priced good quality auto-retracting air hose reels? Most of the ones I've seen go for around $150 and up. Also any suggestions of nice flexible air hose.; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00062.html (9,419 bytes)
16. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Trevor Boicey <tboicey@brit.ca>; Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 19:06:56 -0400; Princess Auto here in Canada has two grades of retracting air hose reels. I think both are 30 feet long when fully "out". The cheap one is around $50CDN, and the expensive one is around $80? I have t; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00063.html (8,547 bytes)
17. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: Scott Whitehead <swhiteh3@mpdr0.detroit.mi.ameritech.net>; Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 19:04:25 -0400; I found a GREAT deal on mine at Costco. I bought it for about $40 or $50, and the retractor and mount is extremely high quality for the price. The hose is not ultra top notch, but I figure if it last; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00064.html (10,412 bytes)
18. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: JGN <jgn@li.net>; Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 21:08:47 -0400 (EDT); Harbor Freight has some cheapos, as do JC Whitney and Northern. I'd expect the Northern units to be of better quality. John; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00065.html (9,523 bytes)
19. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: cak@dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev); Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:13:56 -0700; Yeah, I've got a cheapy from JC Whitney. It's fine, except that the hose is small diameter, and the reel center leaks. I put a ball valve on the input, which is fine, except that you need to be able; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00066.html (7,740 bytes)
20. Re: FAQ: Wiring a shop (score: 1): Author: "Tim Mullen" <Tim.Mullen@trw.com>; Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 07:06:39 -0700; I bought one of these also a couple of months ago. It seems to be quite good - open real and all metal. And no leaks so far, although I don't keep my system pressurized all the time - only when in u; /html/shop-talk/2000-10/msg00068.html (8,887 bytes)

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