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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Electrical\s+question\s*$/: 10 ]

Total 10 documents matching your query.

1. Electrical question (score: 1)
Author: Marc <smarc@smarc.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 12:36:10 -0500
I'm gathering materials to install a subpanel in my garage. Have 200 amp service, don't electric heat, or any really large loads. Nothing bigger than a electric clothes dryer or electric oven. Planni
/html/shop-talk/2006-01/msg00023.html (7,190 bytes)

2. Re: Electrical question (score: 1)
Author: Marc <smarc@smarc.net>
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 15:11:05 -0500
I spoke with an electrician, here's what I found out: Have to run #2 SER (4 conductors), and tie the ground and neutral together in the main panel, then in the sub panel the ground and neutral gets s
/html/shop-talk/2006-01/msg00024.html (7,422 bytes)

3. Re: Electrical question (score: 1)
Author: doug@dougbraun.com
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 15:11:12 -0500
Is the garage attached or detached? I know that when I added 50 amp service to my detached garage, I needed a ground with the power feed, and also two ground rods. Doug Braun
/html/shop-talk/2006-01/msg00025.html (6,928 bytes)

4. Re: Electrical question (score: 1)
Author: Pat Horne <pjhorne@mail.utexas.edu>
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 14:36:28 -0600
If the service is on the house, and the garage is attached, then the house ground rod will do. Just run the garage ground back to the house main panel. Check with your local electrical inspector to
/html/shop-talk/2006-01/msg00026.html (7,870 bytes)

5. Re: electrical question (score: 1)
Author: James Babcock <jbabcoc@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 10:07:09 -0700 (PDT)
Hi Matt. Be sure that you are using the correct tubes for the ballast. Newer ballasts will have an indication of the tube type required. My failing memory says that F40 is common, but there are other
/html/shop-talk/2000-04/msg00007.html (7,459 bytes)

6. RE: electrical question (score: 1)
Author: "Paul Mele" <Paul.Mele@usermail.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 17:41:05 -0400
ditto the prior note; this is usu a problem if you try to use "energy saver" 34W bulbs with a plain=jane ballast. Overheating is the other problem with ballasts; otherwise, they should last a long ti
/html/shop-talk/2000-04/msg00008.html (8,146 bytes)

7. electrical question (score: 1)
Author: mbarre@juno.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 12:42:03 -0500
I am having a recurring ballast problem with kitchen flourescent lights. The ballasts went out 2 years ago (2 fixtures) so I replaced them. A year later the ballasts were gone again so I put 2 new co
/html/shop-talk/2000-03/msg00089.html (6,510 bytes)

8. Electrical Question (score: 1)
Author: Kurt Oblinger <koblinger@verizon.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2006 20:25:14 -0700
I'm moving a plug in the back of a cabinet and have a question. This plug has a hot feed coming in and then has two branches out to other plugs. When the electrician originally installed it he tired
/html/shop-talk/2006-10/msg00100.html (7,186 bytes)

9. RE: Electrical Question (score: 1)
Author: "Charley Robinson" <charleyrob@charter.net>
Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2006 00:10:28 -0400
The professional electricians I know eschew the use of the quick wire connections. The advantage of the pigtails is that if something goes wrong with the outlet, you still have power down the line. I
/html/shop-talk/2006-10/msg00101.html (7,451 bytes)

10. Re: Electrical Question (score: 1)
Author: "Karl Vacek" <kvacek@Ameritech.net>
Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2006 23:36:17 -0500
True - and besides, it's not legal to feed another circuit through the push-in connectors.
/html/shop-talk/2006-10/msg00102.html (7,494 bytes)


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