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Total 11 documents matching your query.

1. Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>; Date: 06 Nov 2000 08:02:09 -0600; After my adventures last week, losing my toolbox on the way home from the TRGB Autojumble (see True Gentleman!), I did actually manage to come home with some stuff from TRGB, including an old clock (; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00066.html (8,967 bytes)
2. Re: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: Kevin Rhodes <krhodes1@maine.rr.com>; Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2000 11:58:20 -0500; Hello Richard, I put a clock and an oil pressure gauge in Freddy last winter. The easiest method to make the holes is to use a "hole saw". This is a circular saw blade meant to be mounted to an elect; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00073.html (10,320 bytes)
3. Re: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: "Jeff McNeal" <jmcneal@ohms.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 09:34:16 -0800; Richard is going to have a slightly tougher time than you did, simply because there will already be a hole (from the light switch) where the starter bit would normally be positioned, making it very; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00077.html (12,399 bytes)
4. Re: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: "Luke Lewis" <lukage@home.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 12:40:22 -0500; After doing this to both my old plastic dash, and the new Cherry dash that I made this summer, I would definitely recommend using a holesaw of the correct OD for the main hole, and another for the bi; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00078.html (9,836 bytes)
5. Re: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>; Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2000 11:01:27 -0700; Using the second (larger) hole saw to cut the larger hole for the recess sounds like a good idea, but I have found that unless you have a drill press to hold the saw in place and some way to clamp th; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00079.html (10,915 bytes)
6. Re: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: Roger Elliott <relliott@cjnetworks.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 12:17:55 -0600 (CST); I haven't done this, so this is just a thought. What would happen if you do the big diameter first -just drill to the depth you want. Put in the smaller hole saw. You now have a pilot hole that is in; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00080.html (11,777 bytes)
7. RE: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: "Graziano, Michael" <michael.graziano@csfb.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 13:35:33 -0500; Just a thought..... Rather than a hole saw. Why not use speed bores. Use the larger bore first, to fit the rim. Go down just far enough. Then use the smaller bore for the main section. THe guide piec; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00081.html (13,214 bytes)
8. Re: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: Donald H Locker <dhl@chelseamsl.com>; Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2000 16:02:41 -0500 (EST); But if you cut the larger hole first with the hole saw, you can keep the pilot hole and then cut the smaller hole. Optionally, cut the smaller hole NEARLY through, then cut larger (recess) hole, then; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00089.html (10,372 bytes)
9. Re: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: OHFASTONE@aol.com; Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 04:20:42 EST; Just a thought but, since you'd be using a hole saw with a pilot, couldn't you use the larger blade, watching how deep you cut, cut the recess grove then switching to the smaller blade, cut the openi; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00096.html (7,507 bytes)
10. Re: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: Kevin Rhodes <krhodes1@maine.rr.com>; Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2000 10:05:18 -0500; Exactly! For drilling in the center of the light switch opening, just clamp another board to the back and use a long pilot drill. When I did this I did not use a drill press, I just was very careful; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00098.html (7,888 bytes)
11. Re: Clock mounting (score: 1): Author: "Luke Lewis" <lukage@home.com>; Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 13:30:38 -0500; The dash looks great - I took the advice of a fellow I met at a meet, and made the dash out of marine-grade plywood with a cherry veneer bonded to it (Since I have no garage, the car spends the summe; /html/spitfires/2000-11/msg00102.html (12,034 bytes)

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