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101. Re: Pourch Plans (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2003 08:39:42 -0400; Quoting Bob Nogueira <nogera@worldnet.att.net>: The posts should be attached solidly to the deck... um, porch *joists*. I notch them out so they fit tight onto the joists, then bolt them in place wit; /html/shop-talk/2003-06/msg00029.html (7,233 bytes)
102. Re: CM "Bolt Outs" (score: 1): Author: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2003 13:24:01 -0400; If you are referring to bolt extractor that looks like a socket with flutes inside - there was write up recently in a motorcycle magazine. They reported the Craftsman Bolt Extractor worked well. IMO,; /html/shop-talk/2003-06/msg00045.html (7,774 bytes)
103. Re: Harbor Freight blast cabinet (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 18:16:42 -0400; Quoting Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>: My guess is that the HF item would do what you are asking but you will also find lots of stuff that WON'T fit (and you'll wish for a bigger cabinet). Cons; /html/shop-talk/2003-05/msg00077.html (8,481 bytes)
104. Re: painting project (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Tue, 27 May 2003 13:33:22 -0400; Quoting JNiolon@uss.com: John, by 'stamped wood finish' are you referring the type that are essentially fancy hollow-core doors? (vs. solid wood - styles, rails, & raised panels?) I'd be leery of app; /html/shop-talk/2003-05/msg00090.html (7,396 bytes)
105. Re: Overhead door choices (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Wed, 28 May 2003 09:26:51 -0400; Quoting Marc <smarc@abs.net>: Looks like you've had least a couple of replies so far, seems like it is half like two doors, half like one big door... I've had both. I can't see a huge advantage to ei; /html/shop-talk/2003-05/msg00102.html (7,887 bytes)
106. Re: Air Compressors -- Blast Cabinets (score: 1): Author: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 22:11:35 -0400; -- Original Message -- in a I built a blasting cabinet for a friend who used it with both siphon & pressure feeds. The disadvantage of the pressure feed is the need to stop and re-fill the media cont; /html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00049.html (8,109 bytes)
107. Re: Air Compressors -- Blast Cabinets (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 09:00:32 -0400; Quoting Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>: My friend had built one using the plans from Tiptools. I built one for myself using the plans as a guide but modified slightly - I made the legs from plyw; /html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00052.html (7,851 bytes)
108. Re: Air Compressors -- Blast Cabinets (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 13:20:44 -0400; Quoting Mike Rambour <mikey@b2systems.com>: FWIW, I installed a sheet of 'resist' material across the back wall when I built blast cabinets from plywood. This is a rubbery material about 1/8" thick u; /html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00057.html (8,256 bytes)
109. Re: cooling system pressure test (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 16:58:35 -0400; Quoting Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com>: What do you want to do? I've used an old bicycle inner tube to test radiators & heater cores. I cut the tube, attached it to the item in question then add; /html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00094.html (7,612 bytes)
110. Re: DIY shop press plans (score: 1): Author: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2003 13:24:30 -0400; My thought is not of deflection (probably not a problem) but of the hassle of changing the height (distance from press to anvil). It appears to use threaded rod to support the anvil - seems it'd take; /html/shop-talk/2003-04/msg00133.html (7,591 bytes)
111. Re: implements for grass cutting and snow removal (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 17:44:28 -0500; When we lived in Massachusetts, my father had a lawn tractor. He tried the snow plow attachment, added lots of weight over the drive wheels and chains on the tires but never had enough traction to pl; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00095.html (9,871 bytes)
112. slightly OT: hitch ball ? (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:32:25 -0500; I am new to trailer towing but I can't find the answer to what I thought was a simple question... Does one lubricate (grease) the hitch ball while towing a trailer? Or would this merely attract grit; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00140.html (7,792 bytes)
113. Re: slightly OT: hitch ball ? (score: 1): Author: ejrussell@mebtel.net; Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:47:20 -0500; Quoting Steven Trovato <trovato@computer.net>: snip Thanks. I din't mean to imply I hadn't looked but rather that there seemed to be a lot of conflicting advice. Some sites said do, some said don't..; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00144.html (8,555 bytes)
114. Re: Trailer Wiring. (score: 1): Author: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2003 09:13:18 -0500; When I rewired my trailer, I used the instructions 'printed' here: It doesn't specifically mention wire gauge. but I do recall reading 12 gauge for the brake circuit. Since I like to run dedicated gr; /html/shop-talk/2003-03/msg00161.html (9,209 bytes)
115. Craftsman chainsaw - trigger (throttle) question (score: 1): Author: "ejrussell@mebtel.net" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 00:05:53 -0500; Wondering if anyone has some input on this: I have a Craftsman 16" chainsaw. The throttle lock (to hold the throttle slightly open when starting) does not work. I am studying the "exploded" drawing b; /html/shop-talk/2003-02/msg00025.html (7,751 bytes)
116. Re: running black pipe along walls. (score: 1): Author: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 16:59:04 -0500; Tip Tools had good diagram for setting up metal piping systems. http://www.tptools.com/statictext/piping_diagram_2003.pdf They don't mention exactly how to secure the piping to the walls... One usefu; /html/shop-talk/2003-01/msg00002.html (9,582 bytes)
117. OT (slightly) Farm-All tractor (score: 1): Author: "Eric J Russell" <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 18:15:09 -0500; I believe some on this may have an interest in farm tractors. On my way to the dump, err - Transfer Station - I saw a Farm-All tractor sitting out in front of a farmer's house. It had a 'for sale' si; /html/shop-talk/2003-01/msg00007.html (6,852 bytes)
118. Re: Best way to remove broken bolts (score: 1): Author: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 09:05:32 -0500; Lots of good replies thus far. I'd like to add that some sort of jig to hold your drill bit centered & square would be worth the effort. It need not be very elaborate - a hard wood block with a steel; /html/shop-talk/2003-01/msg00077.html (9,090 bytes)
119. Re: RE: even MORE air line questions. (score: 1): Author: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2003 17:24:32 -0500; When I plumbed my garage for air, I used a similar type hose sourced from the local Home Center. I believe it was sold to connect gas appliances to the gas pipe. I do not recall either the price nor; /html/shop-talk/2003-01/msg00122.html (8,177 bytes)
120. Re: drill bit sharpeners (score: 1): Author: Eric Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>; Date: Tue, 03 Dec 2002 15:28:43 -0500; I bought the drill motor powered version "Drill Doctor". It works as advertised, a bit easier than a jig/grinding wheel (?pun?). If $$ is not an issue, get the self-powered version. It only takes a m; /html/shop-talk/2002-12/msg00013.html (7,662 bytes)

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