I have been studying Dave Connitt's TR4 - Bodywork/Driver Side sills and http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a/TR4A_Restoration/index.html I am planning how to go about replacing the floors and sills in my
Question 1 The idea is to maintain a couple of points of reference to keep things straight. I found it to be very difficult to remove the floor pans without addressing the sills too. After all, you
Hi Paul: You're comparing apples to oranges. TR2/3 sills are quite different from TR4/4A (Dave Connit's). Since the TR2/3 inner sills are quite rigid on their own, I'd install them first and solve al
I am truly honored to be speaking with the Honorable Dave, thank you for your TR4's must be different here: in the TR3, the outer sill is flimsy and is just for looks! The inner sill is what the floo
....I am not a great welder, so today when I was at Lowes (Home Depot) I looked at their Structural Adhesives. I am wondering that since rails, crossmembers, outriggers and sills are 'under' my floor
I believe that you should use the pads between the inner sill mounts and the outriggers only. I do not believe that there should be any pads between the floor pan and the inner sill mounts. Note how
I'm not either, but here's what little I know or have observed. The adhesive itself is not as strong as weld metal. What that means is that, to achieve an equivalent joint strength, the adhesive mus
I am not either a structural engineer but I would think that a continuous seal of a good, polyurethane adhesive (such as Fusor which is used in new cars) could be as strong or stronger than a series
A good resource is your local auto paint store. I was steered towards a product with the brand name of Fusor (or Fuzor) which comes in caulking gun cartridges as well as other formats. I was told tha
The sills are not structural members. The door posts are welded to the box member that runs from the leading edge of the body, just to the rear of the wheel well, to the back, just in front of the re
And is also the item called the "sill assembly" in the factory parts diagram. Randall CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information proprietary to N
Perhaps we are arguing semantics. We were discussing the INNER sills which are the box sections to which you refer. The outer sills are, as you say, non structural and merely dress up the appearance
Or the adhesive may adhere to the powder coating just fine, but the bond between the powder coating and the metal will become the weak point. -Mark == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triu
You're right, it is called the "sill assembly," but I choose not to call that because often the outer rocker panel ( correct term on most cars,) is often called a "sill" in Triumph discussion. It avo
I would not depend on it. You should use a grinder to clean "tack spots" on the inner box (sill) and matching points on the outer (rocker panel) sill. Then use the adhesive generously on those points
Yeppers. The early TR-2 had the "long doors." I'm not sure if these were done away with while the TR-2 was being made, or represented the transition to the early TR-3s. These inner sills are structur
I would suggest that when you start insisting that the sill is not the sill, it engenders confusion rather than avoiding it. Perhaps it would be better to refer (as some have done) to the outer sill