- 121. Re: [TR] Soft Top comparison (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 20:18:01 -0400
- Austin, Cant speak for the TR6 but the wife got me a Robbins top for the '58 TR3A from TRF about 15 years ago and it still looks like new. I keep it clean and use that vinyl stuff from Moss to keep i
- /html/triumphs/2006-08/msg00266.html (7,462 bytes)
- 122. Re: [TR] TR3's maiden voyage! (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 06:45:07 -0400
- Paul, If your tank is empty the pump will be pumping air. The glass bowl will most likely not empty into the tank or fuel line because the tank is a bit higher than the fuel pump. Since the line cont
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00028.html (8,655 bytes)
- 123. Re: [TR] Weight and wire (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 06:52:11 -0400
- John, On my TR3A, I did tin the wires that fit into screw terminals, such as most of the dash switches. And in over 26 years, no electrical problems. Make sure you tignten the screws tight. Should be
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00029.html (7,616 bytes)
- 124. [TR] TR4 Air control (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2006 13:38:31 -0400
- Good Afternoon, I need to know which side of the air control unit the rubber seal goes. Does it go agains the outside (on the end where the air control valve goes to the dash proper) or the end where
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00142.html (7,052 bytes)
- 125. [TR] wiper boxes etc. (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 20:17:21 -0400
- Just finished assembling the wiper boxes etc on the TR4 project. How did the assemblers at the factory keep their wits and not go crazy performing this task day in and day out? I guess I am lucky wit
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00208.html (7,593 bytes)
- 126. Re: [TR] TR3 brake pressure switch terminals (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 06:32:50 -0400
- This switch is either for a TR4 or maybe a late TR3A or B. It has the spade (lucar) terminal. The earlier TR3A switch had screw terminals. Either way there are 2 terminals, not 1. Look at the wiring
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00235.html (7,409 bytes)
- 127. Re: [TR] TR3A Fuel Pump Blanking Plate (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 14:46:26 -0400
- Terry, I just saw a listing on EBAY. But I cant find it today. The guy who makes them is Frank Fisher out of California. BUt I cant remember his email address. Take a look at Bob Danielson's web page
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00342.html (7,715 bytes)
- 128. Re: [TR] Removing old calking from glass (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 14:48:53 -0400
- Jim, I cleaned up my TR4 windshield with a combination of steel wool, WD40 and a putty knife. Lots of fun but it got the job done. Bob == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register =
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00343.html (7,429 bytes)
- 129. [TR] TR4 high beam switch (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 15:06:51 -0400
- I need to know how to connect the dipper switch. On the back of the switch are 3 terminals: one with a number "1", another with a "F" (in the center) and the last with a number "2" The wires are Blu
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00345.html (6,859 bytes)
- 130. [TR] TR4-6 emergency bonnet release kit (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 15:25:21 -0400
- Just wanted to post a thanks and a plug for the bonnet release kit. I got 1 of these awhile ago and just finished the install. Easy to do, clear directions and it works like a charm. I cant wait for
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00346.html (6,727 bytes)
- 131. Re: [TR] TR4 high beam switch (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 21:25:43 -0400
- Thanks for this tip. Got the olm meter out and not only checked out the switch (which worked fine) but now have all 3 wires connected correctly. You were right, the solid blue wire went to the center
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00384.html (8,473 bytes)
- 132. Re: [TR] Timing chain project - dog bolt removal question (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 08:51:46 -0400
- Adrian, If you have a impact wrench, it is a simple job. Just a few shots with the gun and the bolt should spin right off. I dont think I would use the starter to loosen the bolt. If you dont have an
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00444.html (8,179 bytes)
- 133. Re: [TR] TR3 vs TrR4's experience (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 08:56:41 -0400
- Paul, Ask this question this time next year. The TR4 is still a work in progress. I had one back in the 70's but didnt have a 3 at the time to compare. I have started the fender body work but will ru
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00446.html (8,650 bytes)
- 134. Re: [TR] Timing chain - update! (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 17:50:28 -0400
- Good news! Should not be a problem. It is better that the key is in place, makes getting the thing back together easier. A new chain is easy to install. Just make sure you can see the punch mark and
- /html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00454.html (8,721 bytes)
- 135. Re: [TR] ball joint removal (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2006 19:14:46 -0400
- Alan, Both tools Randall highlights will work for ball joints. I have used both and I second Randall and recommend the 2nd tool. It is cast iron and I used it to remove the tie rod ends and ball join
- /html/triumphs/2006-10/msg00118.html (8,423 bytes)
- 136. Re: [TR] Disaster Strikes - TR4A (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2006 20:23:07 -0400
- Guy, I am guessing you broke it at the engine? not at the distributor? There is a gasket there between the pedestal and the block. But the pedestal should fit flush with the block there. If you broke
- /html/triumphs/2006-10/msg00210.html (8,972 bytes)
- 137. Re: [TR] Fw: OIL FILTER O-RING CRAZY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 08:03:33 -0400
- Paul, Unless there is something wrong with either the rubber ring or the grove it sits there is no "trick" required. The only problem is if there is already a ring in place that I have heard. I guess
- /html/triumphs/2006-10/msg00229.html (8,901 bytes)
- 138. [TR] windshield glass (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 19:53:51 -0400
- I am getting ahead of myself, but I am wondering how hard is it to install the windshield glass using a new rubber seal? Is a special tool needed or should I take the windshield frame, glass, seal a
- /html/triumphs/2006-10/msg00253.html (7,126 bytes)
- 139. [TR] TR Windshield Glass (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2006 06:58:26 -0400
- Well I received the correct vinyl from Mark Macy the other day and I should be finished with the install Saturday AM. Then I will attempt to install the glass following all your instructions with the
- /html/triumphs/2006-10/msg00559.html (7,009 bytes)
- 140. [TR] TR4 Windshield (score: 1)
- Author: Bob Labuz <yellowtr@adelphia.net>
- Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 18:06:57 -0400
- Well the glass is in and the string worked real nice! I always wondered how the glass pros did that job. The only problem I had was at times I really had to pull on the string, push etc and my finger
- /html/triumphs/2006-10/msg00618.html (7,085 bytes)
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