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Total 635 documents matching your query.

81. [TR] Fwd: Was : Finger Breaking Choke Pull, TR3 (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 16:16:49 -0700; I agree entirely (except you only have to push the accelerator a little way, not to the floor). However yesterday, while I was working on the OD, I reached into the car, pulled the choke out and sta; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00475.html (9,029 bytes)
82. [TR] FT's TR3 (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 11:07:01 -0700; Someone goofed, Fred's car was a 59 TR3A. Might have been TS46461L, but not TCF. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00488.html (8,501 bytes)
83. [TR] modifying a reamer for carb shaft (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 23:08:04 -0700; Right, except the "shape" can be a simple flat at the right angle (or close to it). Look at the normal leading edge (tip) of the reamer for an example, then grind the same flat onto the back edge, p; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00496.html (9,471 bytes)
84. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 13:26:36 -0700; That would actually be a very useful trick sometimes. If anyone figures out how to make a reamer cut larger by grinding metal away from it, please let me know! -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00509.html (9,122 bytes)
85. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 16:14:44 -0700; Yes, but that happens because a drill bit is normally working from a "center" at the tip. Grind one lip longer than the other, and the point is no longer in the middle of the drill (making it farthe; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00518.html (10,770 bytes)
86. [TR] Roll over bars (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 16:19:10 -0700; My opinion, such a thing is impossible. To be good for anything except bragging, a roll bar has to tie into the frame. But the frame is in a very inconvenient place to attach a roll bar. Hence the o; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00519.html (7,396 bytes)
87. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 18:33:13 -0700; But we aren't changing the circumference, only the angle leading up to it. Anyway, the important part is that it does work. And Loctite will hide any sins like poor surface finish. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00523.html (9,529 bytes)
88. [TR] Reamers (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 12:32:40 -0700; Sorry, Ronnie. I wasn't trying to offend anyone, just wanted to understand the reamer sharpening issue in general. I think I've got it now, so I'll shut up. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00536.html (7,351 bytes)
89. [TR] Hood dzus fastener brackets - TR2/3 (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 14:12:15 -0700; I assume you are talking about the fasteners for the hood/bonnet, rather than the side curtains. They do usually need to be shimmed a bit, to get the hood to line up with the fenders. Solid (rather; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00539.html (8,209 bytes)
90. [TR] I have a bad feeling about this (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 15:18:03 -0700; Sounds to me like you just did. It isn't. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00543.html (7,982 bytes)
91. [TR] Solenoid? (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 08:38:15 -0700; Sounds more like a bad connection to (or perhaps inside) the battery to me. The circuit to the starter (when you push the button on the solenoid) is separate from the ignition circuit, so otherwise i; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00550.html (8,026 bytes)
92. [TR] Tr3A rear axle removal (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 14:40:52 -0700; As I recall, the book method is to slide it one way until the tube drops below the frame, then slide it the other way until the second tube clears. Anyway, that was the way I did it. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00594.html (7,268 bytes)
93. [TR] TR3 Rear Seat Part number Question (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 17:18:22 -0700; I found a listing for that part number on EnglishParts.com. Appears to be the bracket that supports the rear seat, and I'm guessing that it's Stanpart 702091 listed for TR3 only (TS8637 to TS22013).; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00602.html (8,560 bytes)
94. [TR] TR3 Rear Seat Part number Question (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:39:18 -0700; Yup, there were several different brackets and seats. Those look like the early ones to me (with the separate seat back rather than padding built into the rear cockpit board. The extra length of bra; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00607.html (9,032 bytes)
95. [TR] Tow bar for TR3 (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 00:28:48 -0700; I tried it once, never again. The frame extensions flexed so much that it literally buckled the sheet metal in the front apron. Get a tow dolly at least, better yet a trailer. If you do tow with the; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00609.html (7,759 bytes)
96. [TR] TDC (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 16:28:10 -0700; How accurately do you want to know it? Normally I just look at the timing mark. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00623.html (7,670 bytes)
97. [TR] TR4A - Installing Dan Master's Harness - Question (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 17:14:47 -0700; Yes, the original solenoid is still required if you are keeping the original starter. The relay in the power block (and the wiring to it) will NOT handle the hundreds of amps drawn by the starter mot; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00640.html (8,294 bytes)
98. [TR] silicon or regular brake fluic (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 18:26:19 -0700; This borders on a religious discussion, with lots of opinions on both sides. Personally I love DOT-5 silicone brake fluid. Not only does it not harm paint and not degrade over time, it helps preserve; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00642.html (8,797 bytes)
99. [TR] silicon or regular brake fluic (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 18:47:02 -0700; Please note that "synthetic" is not synonymous with "DOT 5 silicone". Lots of stores sell DOT 4 (or DOT 5.1) "synthetic", and it will still eat paint, absorb water, corrode aluminum, etc. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00644.html (9,154 bytes)
100. [TR] silicon or regular brake fluic (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 09:13:14 -0700; In one case that I heard about, the clearances in the MC were so tight that the piston would not return properly with silicone fluid. It's my personal opinion that it would have had trouble in very; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00651.html (8,951 bytes)

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