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Total 635 documents matching your query.

321. [TR] Cosmo's repair manual (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 14:13:21 -0700; Not to mention having your carburetors drip fuel onto the hot exhaust manifold. Especially impressive when the manifold is red hot (caused by a carburetion fault). -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00395.html (8,024 bytes)
322. [TR] TR3 Parking Brake Indicator Light? (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 15:54:52 -0700; So far, it's not been a problem for me. I don't always use the handbrake, but when I do, I make sure to set it hard enough that it is very obvious the brake is set. However, micro switches are inexpe; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00429.html (8,509 bytes)
323. [TR] Hand Brake left on (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 09:12:46 -0800; But wouldn't it be simpler to just wire the OD correctly? -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00441.html (8,758 bytes)
324. [TR] Hand Brake left on (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 10:43:46 -0800; IMO the whole lockout idea would not suit me at all. For one thing, I generally start the engine first, with the handbrake still set, so that I can use my right foot on the throttle (as needed to ke; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00442.html (10,882 bytes)
325. [TR] Hand Brake left on (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 12:51:37 -0800; You can also get audible alarms that are really obnoxious. This one http://www.mallory-sonalert.com/sounds/SCE%20Pulsers/SU1.wav is available to roughly 100 db, which is above the OSHA limit. Makes; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00445.html (9,692 bytes)
326. [TR] Handbrake warning light (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:42:23 -0800; Quite right, as usual John. Except I have two Stags, and that switch does not work properly on either of them. The TR3 handbrake lever is quite a bit different than the later cars; it actually mount; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00458.html (8,282 bytes)
327. [TR] TR3 question (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:57:27 -0800; That's the right general location. Here's a photo supplied by Don Elliott (with some components removed for clarity) http://fwd4.me/0gKj -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00459.html (7,524 bytes)
328. [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:32:32 -0800; I have seen the heater return line (on the LH side of the engine) get blocked with sediment or even kink/collapse. Might be worth checking. If you still can't find the problem, a fairly extreme test; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00475.html (9,045 bytes)
329. [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 11:14:29 -0800; My opinion, that's good enough. Assuming you used a 180F thermostat, it's running warm enough. Until something else strange happens, just drive it and don't worry. IMO they took the numbers off the; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00479.html (9,197 bytes)
330. [TR] battery charger (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 16:41:42 -0800; Mine is a Schumacher, and it's probably close to that old. They still make battery chargers, and while the graphics are different, this one looks to be very similar: http://fwd4.me/0gOS But I would; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00498.html (7,922 bytes)
331. [TR] TR4A - Fan temperature threshold question (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 16:46:56 -0800; That should work fine, IMO, as long as you mount the sensor either at the bottom of the radiator or in the return line to the engine. As Chris wrote, IMO that is the best place for a fan sensor anyw; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00499.html (9,081 bytes)
332. [TR] wiper motor tr-3 (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 20:26:30 -0800; Plastic should do fine, but try to get something with a fairly high melting point. The inside of the motor can get pretty warm if it runs for a long time. If you know someone locally that dabbles in; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00501.html (7,709 bytes)
333. [TR] TR3A fuel troubles (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 13:55:48 -0800; I do hope that means the car is turning 51; not that you are selling it. -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00514.html (9,063 bytes)
334. [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 14:12:55 -0800; Opening the bypass won't help, as it just provides another path around the water pump (although I think it is a bad idea to leave the bypass fully blocked, as you really want some water flowing throu; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00515.html (9,774 bytes)
335. [TR] TR4A - Compression Check Numbers (score: 131): Author: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 17:29:40 -0800; Too many things other than engine condition will affect the absolute numbers recorded; including which model of compression gauge you use and what the weather is like today. So the _only_ thing to lo; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00518.html (8,210 bytes)
336. [TR] Ammeter shunt (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 20:45:18 -0800; There are different approaches; mine is quite a bit different than Dan's. What I did (the first time) was to undo the ammeter mounting and let it (carefully) hang out of the dash while I experimented; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00522.html (9,175 bytes)
337. [TR] [stag] Rebuilding a brake servo (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 06:43:37 -0800; Although the TR6 servo is somewhat different, this article may be helpful: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Servo/Servo.htm -- Randall; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00541.html (7,347 bytes)
338. [TR] Transmission re-build/service (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:43:54 -0800; Could be a worn synchro, but it's unusual (in my limited experience) for the 4th gear synchro to wear out first. I would also check the force required to move the shift ring on the hub (which is how; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00544.html (9,463 bytes)
339. [TR] Transmission re-build/service (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:06:10 -0800; I think Joe's main objection is that they (the alloy flywheels) are relatively fragile and prone to fail under racing conditions. At any rate, I've been running one on the street for several years n; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00561.html (10,113 bytes)
340. [TR] Transmission re-build/service (score: 131): Author: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall); Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:08:51 -0800; The flywheel was Hopefully this is obvious, but JIC : You need to check for runout with the flywheel actually installed on the crank. The problem may not be the clutch surface, but the joint between; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00562.html (8,874 bytes)

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