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Total 22 documents matching your query.

1. [TR] throttle shaft reaming (score: 255): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 21:58:12 -0400; Well, I had thought the same thing. I used a slightly undersize reamer to account for this and for wobble when manually turning the reamer. I also put a slight bevel on the corner of the cutting flut; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00547.html (8,914 bytes)
2. [TR] TR4A badge bar (score: 255): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 11:14:07 -0400; Bob and Jerry Thanks for your quick replies. The bar as Jerry describes his is probably not going to work for me. My tow loops on the front of the frame are filled with my front sway bar. I managed t; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00231.html (11,081 bytes)
3. [TR] Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors (score: 247): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 14:04:44 -0400; Geo, Good suggestion. You may be right. Let me explain my thinking. I don't think that the 44 strand wire would melt before the 50A fusible link. Certainly, the 50A is greater than the 44 strand is r; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00295.html (10,464 bytes)
4. [TR] headlamp removal (score: 247): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:32:43 -0400; Randall, Thanks. I fashioned a tool out of some steel I had lying around. I bent it about 3/16" from the end at a right angle, then heat treated it with a MAPP torch, quenched it for "hardening" and; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00316.html (9,348 bytes)
5. [TR] Comparison of headlamp current draw. (score: 247): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 21:56:19 -0400; Randall, I just checked my TR4/4A workshop manual. It lists RHD Home market bulbs as 60/36 watts. For left hand drive, it is either 36/36 or 45/40. So, my measurement of 46/37 is pretty close to the; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00320.html (8,692 bytes)
6. [TR] TR4A valve springs (score: 247): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:02:14 -0400; Ed, I can't comment on the valve spring dimensions (nor the spring rate). Doesn?t the ROM say anything about this? As for the aluminum push rod tubes, I oserved that mine are aluminum too. It is not; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00378.html (9,301 bytes)
7. [TR] : Wiper Motor Question (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2011 10:50:22 -0500; Guy, I agree with Randall, your power supply is probably totally inadequate. Even a small 12v gellcell battery is not really up to the task. A lawnmower battery (or larger) would be good. Use an inli; /html/triumphs/2011-01/msg00399.html (8,575 bytes)
8. [TR] TR4 runs rough (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 13:40:45 +0000 (UTC); David, Weak spark such as a bad coil? Lean mixture, such as inadequate amount/excessively low viscosity dashpot oil? -Tony -- Original Message -- My TR4 misses under load after it warms up. I've chan; /html/triumphs/2011-01/msg00463.html (7,738 bytes)
9. [TR] Battery Drain (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2011 07:50:41 -0500; Sam, It takes a fair amount of current to light up a test light. How fast does your battery drain to flat? As usual, Randall is correct that the test light illuminating for a short time then going da; /html/triumphs/2011-01/msg00651.html (9,788 bytes)
10. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 96 (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 12:33:44 +0000 (UTC); Gary, I had an easy time using a dremel cut-off wheel to make the back-cuts on the flutes to get it to cut toward the shank. It was easy enough to do by hand. I'm not sure I would shell out $80 to ha; /html/triumphs/2011-03/msg00507.html (9,700 bytes)
11. [TR] TR4A badge bar (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 09:03:00 -0400; I am thinking of adding driving lights to my TR4A. Due to the hood tipping forward, clearance is a real issue. Positioning needs to be pretty tight to the grille so they won?t interfere with the hood; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00229.html (8,024 bytes)
12. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 118 (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2011 21:34:12 -0400; Randall & George, You both made the same suggestion. trash the old lights and get some good H4's. Good suggestion. Great, actually. But.... I so enter concours shows periodically. I am proud of the f; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00254.html (8,798 bytes)
13. [TR] Power budget woes, was re: driving lights (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2011 13:12:54 +0000 (UTC); I had written a thread about how to mount driving lights on my 4A.? After some brief thought, I suddenly had a sinking feeling about where all this light was going to come from! The driving lights ar; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00262.html (8,250 bytes)
14. [TR] Headlights/driving lights/relays/fuses/connectors (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2011 08:44:08 -0400; All, A couple of ideas/questions: 1) I did some more thinking about the conundrum of my old original headlights being "inadequate", and the fact that I have a couple pairs of driving lights on a shel; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00292.html (12,020 bytes)
15. [TR] headlamp removal (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 18:33:47 -0400; I have a really stupid question. I want to get my headlamp out (to install an H4 type) and I don?t have the special tool to pry under the chrome trim. I gently inserted a screwdriver in accessible pl; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00313.html (7,842 bytes)
16. [TR] Comparison of headlamp current draw. (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:57:31 -0400; I have been in the process of upgrading my headlights. Boy, did they need it! I had some old original Lucas sealed beams, some new (but at least 12 years old) Sylvania tungsten (not halogen) sealed b; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00318.html (8,967 bytes)
17. [TR] Coil Resistance & Pertronics (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 08:41:25 -0400; Dan, The 1.5 ohm coil needs external ballast to bring the overall resistance to about 3 ohms. In other words, the 1.5 ohm coil runs on 6V. The purpose of that is to allow the ignition switch to sent; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00347.html (9,742 bytes)
18. [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 141 (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 17:35:13 -0400; Darrell, BEAUTIFUL! ! One question off the top of my head. What about the PCV valve? What do you do with that? Go back to a road draft tube? -Tony --Original Message-- Message: 5 Date: Tue, 26 Apr 20; /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00413.html (8,870 bytes)
19. [TR] TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes? (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 17:41:13 -0400; Don, Jag Brooklands Green is a very nice BRG. Just on the blue side of the blue/yellow balance compared to Triumph Racing green. IMHO just right. Mazda Miata made a nice BRG for a single year (AFAIK); /html/triumphs/2011-04/msg00416.html (9,107 bytes)
20. [TR] TR3A fuel troubles (score: 240): Author: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net); Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 14:14:35 +0000 (UTC); Don't forget a bad coil.B Mine failed in with suimilar symptoms.B I, too, thought it was fuel, but it still turned out to be electrical. -Tony Hello All; B I drove into the nearest small town today,; /html/triumphs/2011-11/msg00507.html (10,644 bytes)

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