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References: [ +from:dmallin@attglobal.net: 261 ]

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81. Re: Welding clutch fork to cross shaft TR6 TR250 (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 09:27:13 -0400; Hmmmm.... Maybe adding a taper pin is not as hard as I thought. This is from Nelson's Buckeye stuff. The reamer is only $9.50. I had expected this would be much more involved than it is. I'm not a ma; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00238.html (10,659 bytes)
82. Re: clutch comments (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 10:19:57 -0400; Hi Jack, Just some curious comments from an amateur.... Did you use the two locating pins when you attached the bell housing to the engine? Which brand clutch and pressure plate did you use? Which br; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00245.html (8,029 bytes)
83. Re: Welding clutch fork to cross shaft TR6 TR250 (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 20:46:06 -0400; Nelson argues that unless the bolt is a press fit, it is too sloppy and does not share the load of the fork pin. First the fork pin snaps and then the load is carried by the bolt. He makes the same c; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00282.html (9,420 bytes)
84. Re: clutch comments (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2005 21:17:04 -0400; Interesting about the "Gunstish" bearing. Joachim was always quite clear about having to use the preload spring to keep the bearing in contact with the fingers and turning all the time. I was aware t; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00285.html (9,154 bytes)
85. Re: Welding clutch fork to cross shaft TR6 TR250 (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 09:53:01 -0400; Are you saying the bolt solution is superior to Nelson's additional taper pin, or just as good and a little easier? In Nelson's additional taper pin he threads the small end and nyloc's it. Are you; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00317.html (11,456 bytes)
86. Re: Mold and Mildew (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2005 08:14:47 -0400; So far as I know, most if not all those products containe Chlorine Bleech. Not sure I would want to use that on an interior. There's a Prestone product for cleaning car interiors called "Tuff Stuff".; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00338.html (8,437 bytes)
87. Re: ebay liars? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 19:25:00 -0400; Pay with PayPal and use a credit card. PayPal won't help, but Visa will. You can usually get your money back if you present Visa with evidence the seller misled you and a good explanation. It's key t; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00575.html (8,590 bytes)
88. Re: ebay liars? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 09:16:38 -0400; In my experience, no agreement/contact/comment from the seller is required. Just explain your case and be able to prove you returned the merchandise. I once returned an item for which I paid $15. It; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00587.html (8,534 bytes)
89. Re: ebay liars? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 09:26:08 -0400; In my experience, small claims court can be problematic. I once lost a rock sold case for $900.00. The judge didn't want to hear my explanation. He cut it short. You must file the small claims case i; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00588.html (8,453 bytes)
90. Re: ebay liars? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 14:45:21 -0400; True... just click on the credit card source rather than the bank account. Not a big deal in my opinion. All I do with Visa is write a letter to explain the situation and send them a copy of the post; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00745.html (9,240 bytes)
91. Re: Anti-Rust Inside of Chassis (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 16:00:09 -0400; When I researched it, seemed to me that Dinitrol 3125 was the best. Most expensive too. But then dealing with a rusted out frame isn't cheap either. Don Malling; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00752.html (7,289 bytes)
92. Re: 6-Pack TRials video (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 00:13:42 -0400; Nice film. Thanks. Maybe next year. Don Malling; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00777.html (6,639 bytes)
93. Re: Battery Charge Time? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 10:26:14 -0400; In Dan Master's Electrical Maintenance handbook he points out that, while driving, the alternator supplies a constant 14.6 volts to the battery, and once fully charged the battery's internal resistan; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00794.html (8,711 bytes)
94. Re: Battery Charge Time? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 11:01:06 -0400; That's pretty lazy. It's only a few paragraphs -- page 21. I can type it in here if that will help. Don Malling; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00798.html (8,592 bytes)
95. Re: Battery Charge Time? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 11:06:57 -0400; Page 21 right side column about middle of page. "A constant charging voltage, whether in storage or operation, of 14.6 volts will maintain a full charge without any damage to the battery" Don Malling; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00802.html (8,524 bytes)
96. Re: Battery Charge Time? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 12:17:15 -0400; LOL.... Are you saying Dan Masters is a dummy for writing it or I'm a dummy for buying and reading it? Or maybe we're just all dummies in your opinion. LOL... If you are trying to insinuate that I do; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00806.html (9,194 bytes)
97. Re: Battery Charge Time? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 13:01:38 -0400; Hi Bob, As I read Dan's book, he starts by making the case that you can drive a car on a long trip -- 15/16 hours and the alternator is pushing 14.6 volts at a fully charged battery, and you don't da; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00807.html (11,377 bytes)
98. Re: Battery Charge Time? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 21:20:47 -0400; Sounds like we agree that if the voltage stays at 14.6 or so, no damage will be done to the battery. If the battery's are being damaged, then the voltage must be rising to above 14.6 V for some reaso; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00846.html (11,030 bytes)
99. Re: Hot Carbs and Heat Shields-A TR6 Prospectus (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 10:55:42 -0400; Does the shield attach at the carb to intake manifold interface or at the intake to head interface? I would assume it has to be at the carb to intake manifold interface. Don Malling; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00875.html (6,925 bytes)
100. Re: Battery Charge Time? (score: 1): Author: Don Malling <dmallin@attglobal.net>; Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 11:35:06 -0400; I bought a couple of the HF tenders but haven't used them. Someone, maybe Randall, said they can destroy the battery. How can I can test them before use? Don Malling; /html/triumphs/2005-09/msg00879.html (8,184 bytes)

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