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261. RE: [TR] clutch shaft question (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 14:00:55 -0800; If memory serves, it will work, but you will also loose the locating bolt at one end of the shaft. Doesn't seem to be necessary anyway, the shaft will be adequately located by the fork pins touching; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00887.html (7,975 bytes)
262. RE: [TR] Powdercoating? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2007 18:50:17 -0800; Bzzt ! Nope, not right at all. Cured powder coat looks like paint, not powder. It's only powder before it's cured (just like paint is only liquid until it's cured). And it should continue looking li; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00894.html (8,206 bytes)
263. RE: [TR] Re: Powdercoating (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 08:51:23 -0800; Thanks for the tip, Bob. Since it was really tough to sort out your reply from Paul's post, I thought I'd repeat it (above). Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register ==; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00900.html (6,611 bytes)
264. RE: [TR] spark (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 15:04:34 -0800; You've already gotten some very good suggestions. All I have to add is to suggest a systematic approach, rather than just replacing parts at random. Get a voltmeter or 12v test light, and check that; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00906.html (8,016 bytes)
265. RE: [TR] TR3A Alternator Conversion (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 21:26:07 -0800; Correction, the resistor should be IN PARALLEL with the light, not in series. Guess I missed that one ... so you're going to run the line to the fuse box as well ? Normally it only runs from the alt; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00915.html (8,888 bytes)
266. RE: [TR] Re: spark (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 21:28:24 -0800; Wish I had a dollar for everyone I've helped that made a mistake (frequently adding yet another problem) changing points ! Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == h; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00916.html (6,404 bytes)
267. RE: [TR] Re: spark (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2007 09:39:57 -0800; Getting the order wrong is most common; followed by setting the gap wrong and forgetting to hook up all the wires. My point is that it possibly introduces a new problem, which can get very confusing; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00927.html (7,451 bytes)
268. RE: [TR] Valve adjustment for "mild street cam"..TR3 (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2007 09:50:18 -0800; I have in the past, although not now. Not correct. Those clearances are only for early cars with the cast iron rocker pedestals. Spec for your 59 is .010" both. Yes. The cam maker normally specifies; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00928.html (7,996 bytes)
269. RE: [TR] TR3 oil filter (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 09:06:03 -0800; It should. Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://www.vtr.org; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00004.html (6,620 bytes)
270. RE: [TR] test (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 15:32:15 -0800; You fail ... didn't spell your name right. Randall (Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows) CONFIDENTIALITY. This electronic mail and any files transmitted with it may contain information propri; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00014.html (7,439 bytes)
271. RE: [TR] Surface rust vs. Cancer: which is right for me? (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 16:29:53 -0800; Yes. Difference is (hopefully) that surface rust is easily repairable. Since there is a lot of room for "interpretation", I like to ask if there are any places where the rust has caused a hole throu; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00017.html (8,488 bytes)
272. RE: [TR] Brake pads tight (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 23:42:26 -0800; The front brakes on a 60 TR3A are actually supposed to drag somewhat, due to the action of the residual pressure valve. If you can turn the rotor with your hands, it's probably not too tight. They w; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00000.html (7,204 bytes)
273. RE: [TR] butyl rubber caulk is better than silicone (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 22:45:36 -0800; Most do, but not all of them. Should be mentioned on the label, or you can just smell the exposed caulk to see if it smells like vinegar. But acetic acid is pretty weak (household vinegar is 5% acet; /html/triumphs/2007-01/msg00979.html (7,739 bytes)
274. [TR] RE: rust now ebay (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 21:22:29 -0800; (Almost) always a matter of opinion whether the car is "as described" ... if a seller is dishonest enough to blatantly exaggerate the car's condition, then he is not likely to admit he was lying. Th; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00019.html (7,437 bytes)
275. RE: [TR] TR3a rear bumper position (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2007 09:17:35 -0800; Kind of hard to tell from those angles. In 002, the right bumper looks like it tilts out at the top slightly, but 004 makes it look a little bit too far in. So, I'd guess it's pretty close. It's mos; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00033.html (7,591 bytes)
276. RE: [TR] TR3A steering silentbloc bushes (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 10:51:46 -0800; There should be a metal washer at the top that limits the deflection as you press it into place. Press on the washer above where it contacts the sleeve, and all should be well. That limited amount o; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00043.html (7,178 bytes)
277. RE: [TR] Grease seals (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 11:17:16 -0800; If you have just replaced the felt, I would suggest tightening to 10 ftlb. Sometimes the replacement felts are a bit thick, and this ensures that the felt is compressed and the metal backing forced; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00046.html (7,438 bytes)
278. RE: [TR] Grease seals (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 11:19:56 -0800; Likely that means the metal backing is still in the hub. Be sure to remove it if you are going to use the new one. Randall == This list supported in part by The Vintage Triumph Register == http://ww; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00047.html (7,166 bytes)
279. RE: [TR] Silent block replacement - was Grease seals (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 14:03:44 -0800; Which is exactly why I told you to press on the washer directly above the sleeve. Shouldn't be necessary, might cause a problem. Remember it's only that press fit that holds the thing together. Rand; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00057.html (7,467 bytes)
280. RE: [TR] Bench Testing (score: 1): Author: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 14:12:17 -0800; Try any Triumph manual under starter motor testing. Very important to match not only volts, but also current and power type. For example, if you connect a car starter motor to one of those 12v "batt; /html/triumphs/2007-02/msg00058.html (7,398 bytes)

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