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241. RE: Torque Wrench (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Wed, 17 Jun 1998 07:33:47 -0400; Another advantage to the click type is when you've got a really high-torque nut to tighten. (Not so much an issue on our cars, but the old VW Beetles with 275 - 300 ft/lb rear brake drums and flywhee; /html/spridgets/1998-06/msg00438.html (9,328 bytes)
242. Re: 1500 Midget Clutch problems.... (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 08:50:30 -0400; Check to make sure the clutch lever arm pivot is still in the bellhousing. (check out http://www.universitymotorsltd.com/tech for instructions) Chris Kotting ckotting@iwaynet.net; /html/spridgets/1998-06/msg00475.html (8,497 bytes)
243. RE: water drain tap (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 07:22:49 -0400; Don't take it personally, >>>you<<< aren't the object of derision. The objects of derision are the cheap knock-off parts we >>>all<<< get stuck with sometimes. Sometimes commiseration is all the lis; /html/spridgets/1998-06/msg00636.html (10,104 bytes)
244. RE: 1500: fuel problems (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 09:51:55 -0400; A couple of other possibilities (from least hassle/cost to most hassle/cost): 1) One (or more) of the rubber fuel lines has perished and cracked. Since our 1500s use a mechanical fuel pump at the en; /html/spridgets/1998-06/msg00640.html (8,507 bytes)
245. RE: voodoo (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 11:27:36 -0400; Quite right. Unless you've got money to burn, or access to a race shop (often the same thing), big buck performance mods don't seem to pan out. On the other hand, tinkering (within reason) with one; /html/spridgets/1998-06/msg00710.html (10,599 bytes)
246. RE: voodoo (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 12:21:13 -0400; Actually, the major factor in having the "bang" happen closer to the "spark" isn't the exhaust valve opening. It's that the "bang" has to happen when the piston is just about at TDC (actually a tiny; /html/spridgets/1998-06/msg00714.html (11,384 bytes)
247. RE: voodoo (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:39:53 -0400; You're right, of course, that's why I said >relatively< constant. The flame propagation time does vary under certain circumstances (like when you mash the throttle at low RPMs). Remember though, tha; /html/spridgets/1998-06/msg00749.html (13,309 bytes)
248. RE: Brakes - Confused (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 07:47:42 -0400; It's almost certainly the flexible hoses. If it were further back in the system, the wheel would have freed up when you opened up the line at the chassis. To make absolutely, finally certain, open t; /html/spridgets/1998-06/msg00750.html (9,568 bytes)
249. RE: Bugeye wheels & tyres... (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Tue, 30 Jun 1998 12:52:34 -0400; I think the MGBs are a 4 x 4.5" bolt pattern. Spridgets are 4 x 4". On Tuesday, June 30, 1998 11:29 AM, Ulix Goettsch [SMTP:ulix@u.washington.edu] wrote:; /html/spridgets/1998-06/msg00868.html (9,846 bytes)
250. Re: bugeye brakes (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 16:34:13 -0400; 1) Check the adjustment on the drum brakes again. (You are adjusting them with the handbrake OFF, right?) 2) Look for play in the brake-pedal-to-master-cylinder linkage, especially the clevis pin. A; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00092.html (8,311 bytes)
251. Re: '76 Midget Brakes - not fully "releasing" (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 17:09:12 -0400; Leave the calipers alone. The probablility is beter than 95% that it's the rubber brake hoses. If the caliper was stuck, you wouldn't have gotten squirted when you opened the bleed nipple. The "squi; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00205.html (10,088 bytes)
252. RE: 40 Years Today - Happy Birthday? (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 07:59:00 -0400; So, if you reckon the "birthday" as the announcement to the public, then the Sprite and I share a birthday (except I'm a year younger)! I spent the 17th at a British car show here in Columbus, Ohio.; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00251.html (8,686 bytes)
253. RE: Suspension (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 08:09:43 -0400; Replace the bushings before deciding to go the whole route. Converting now rather than later won't save you a a lot of time, and you'll be better able to properly diagnose with decent bushings in th; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00252.html (8,639 bytes)
254. RE: 77 1500 Differential problems - I Think (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 13:54:35 -0400; I'd go with the rebuilt unit. There are very few who have the correct tools and knowledge, and the time it takes means plenty of shop charges. Frankly, with a rebuilt differential from any of the us; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00257.html (8,560 bytes)
255. RE: '76 Midget - Brake Master Cylinder Bench Bleeding? (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 07:17:41 -0400; Don't do it that way if you're using silicone (DOT5 fluid). You'll end up with a master cylinder full of silicone fluid with a lot of "entrained" air, which silicone doesn't release easily. You'll e; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00313.html (9,050 bytes)
256. RE: Fulcrum pin (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 07:28:30 -0400; Enough play for you to notice is probably too much. The procedure for replacing them is (simplified): 1) Cut off old bushings 2) Fit new bushings, using fulcrum pin to align them. 3) Somehow hold th; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00314.html (7,574 bytes)
257. RE: tail/brake light (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 07:28:07 -0400; Read this on a packet of sugar, but I've found it all too true (at least in my "Experience is a wonderful thing. It allows you to recognize a mistake when you make it a second time." Chris Kotting ck; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00476.html (8,725 bytes)
258. RE: Still stumped (was rough running midget part) (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 12:35:40 -0400; One way to check the coil is very simple. Run the car until it stumbles or dies. CAREFULLY put one hand on the coil. If it's hot, it's suspect, especially if it is hotter than, say, the valve cover.; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00485.html (9,126 bytes)
259. RE: Reverse Switch Bullet Connectors (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 07:18:37 -0400; Just pull. However, you might reduce the "yuck factor" by taking your car to one of those coil-op car washes and using the wand to blast most of the goo off. Just let it dry thoroughly afterwards (w; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00562.html (8,104 bytes)
260. RE: Clonking Progress Report and Questions (score: 1): Author: Chris Kotting <ckotting@iwaynet.net>; Date: Fri, 29 May 1998 07:28:41 -0400; RE: A-arm bushings as the source of a clunk. Uh, yeah, it sounds like that's at least part of the problem. RE: Kingpins & Wheel bearings. Even if you don't detect much play right now, I'd still figu; /html/spridgets/1998-05/msg00563.html (9,979 bytes)

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