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1. a few questions (score: 1): Author: Chris Pappathopoulos <ctpappathopo@students.wisc.edu>; Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:35:28 -0500; 1. When ordering from Rimmer in the US do you have to pay any import duties or anything special over ordering from parts houses in the states? 2. I remember reading that VB's floor boards were no goo; /html/spitfires/1999-04/msg00433.html (7,408 bytes)
2. Re: a few questions (score: 1): Author: "Keith R. Stewart" <kstewart@wwdc.com>; Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 21:42:56 -0400; Try www.por15.com for RestoMotive Labratories...great stuff! --; /html/spitfires/1999-04/msg00435.html (7,853 bytes)
3. Re: a few questions (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair@exis.net>; Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 21:51:58 -0400; 3. What is the best primer to use on the floorboards? I think I've read that PQR-15 or something like that is very good. Who makes this? Chris, I took all the undercoating off my the bottoms of my fl; /html/spitfires/1999-04/msg00438.html (7,809 bytes)
4. Re: a few questions (score: 1): Author: jak0pab@jak10.med.navy.mil (Bowen, Patrick A. RP2); Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 10:46:13; Chris, from what I have found Spitbits has the best floorpans, they are exact replicas have all the hole and nuts inplace and there is no extra work involved, VB's are cheasy - only 1 1/2 inch deep (; /html/spitfires/1999-04/msg00450.html (8,312 bytes)
5. Re: a few questions (score: 1): Author: Jjcousins@ra.rockwell.com; Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 10:59:09 -0400; I'd have to dissagree somewhat on the POR-15. I painted my whole frame and all of the drivetrain with this. Before I was done, I starting running out of it. I switched to Rustoleum to paint part of t; /html/spitfires/1999-04/msg00454.html (9,078 bytes)
6. Re: a few questions (score: 1): Author: John Suchak <suchak@mediaone.net>; Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:08:25 -0400; I had a different experience with floorpans I bought from Vickybrit about 2 years ago. They were nice, exact duplicates made of heavy gauge metal. I wonder if maybe they've changed suppliers since th; /html/spitfires/1999-04/msg00455.html (8,829 bytes)
7. Re: a few questions (score: 1): Author: "Keith R. Stewart" <kstewart@wwdc.com>; Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:39:25 -0400; black Agreed...you have to also be careful even if you wear gloves...I know of people who have wiped perspiration off their forehead during a POR15 session only to discover the dreaded black splotch; /html/spitfires/1999-04/msg00459.html (7,738 bytes)
8. Re: a few questions (score: 1): Author: ScottBarr8@aol.com; Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:17:32 EDT; << If it dries somewhere that's not desired (like your hands) then you're screwed. Went to work for a week with black splotches all over my hands. You're right though, it is high gloss and I think th; /html/spitfires/1999-04/msg00468.html (8,011 bytes)
9. Re: a few questions (score: 1): Author: "John T. Blair" <jblair@exis.net>; Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:08:27 -0400; POR-15 is triggered by moisture. The more humid it is the faster it will dry. I've had parts dry in less than 2 hrs. This weekend I was painting on my Sonett and it too over 8 hrs for the POR to dry; /html/spitfires/1999-04/msg00470.html (8,234 bytes)

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