Search String: Display: Description: Sort:

Results:

References: [ +from:shook@usc.edu: 138 ]

Total 138 documents matching your query.

61. Re: Removing Bad Chrome Plate (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 20:27:26 -0700
There was just some discussion on another group about using muriatic acid and water bath for this purpose (I don't know the ratio, though). There also was a comment about taking it to a chromer to ha
/html/shop-talk/1999-09/msg00020.html (7,649 bytes)

62. re: Welders (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 16:16:58 -0700
MIG for big setting but power Hi Tom, I haven't bought it yet, but I spent considerable time researching makes, models, output, local suppliers, name credibility, price, etc., and I have decided to b
/html/shop-talk/1999-09/msg00028.html (8,248 bytes)

63. Re: AirComp Qs (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 10:27:09 -0700
Hi Richard, I guess I'm to blame for this one. I was plagued by wet air while doing some long sandblasting sessions. What I wanted to do was to cool the air down before it entered the tank so that th
/html/shop-talk/1999-08/msg00012.html (8,873 bytes)

64. Re: AirComp Qs (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 13:48:05 -0700
Yes, if your pump bolts directly to your tank, then it would not be practicalto use the setup I described. You could put a condenser/radiator at the tank outlet, but air leaving the tank will be much
/html/shop-talk/1999-08/msg00015.html (9,461 bytes)

65. Re: more compressors (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 14:14:31 -0700
Hi Rex, The pump on any air compressor should not run for more than 2/3 of the time. If you are sanding constantly and your compressor cycles off and on running for 6 or 7 minutes to build pressure,
/html/shop-talk/1999-08/msg00017.html (8,757 bytes)

66. Re: From: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu> (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 13:55:11 -0700
Hi Brian, Normally in a situation where you have low compression, I just: - warm the engine - take a compression reading - squirt some 30 wt in the spark plug hole - take a second compression reading
/html/shop-talk/1999-08/msg00026.html (7,452 bytes)

67. Re: general wrench question (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 09:35:44 -0700
Hi all, SK makes a full set of 6 pt sockets from 3/8" - 1 1/2" in 1/2" drive -- here's the url for tool shack's listing: http://www.mytoolstore.com/sk/sk99070.html I agree with the previous post abou
/html/shop-talk/1999-08/msg00049.html (8,859 bytes)

68. Re: minor 73 midget problems (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 10:10:35 -0700
Hi Tim, I don't know for the Midget, but most British transmissions have a plug on the side of the gearbox about 2/3 of the way up. I like hearing British questions (I have a TR6 and a BSA), but you
/html/shop-talk/1999-07/msg00092.html (11,495 bytes)

69. Update on Parts Washers and Super Agitene (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 20:29:10 -0700
Hi all, It must have been six months ago, or so, when we went through the parts washer solvent thread. At that point I bought a 30 gallon drum mount parts washer and some Super Agitene as the solvent
/html/shop-talk/1999-06/msg00001.html (11,103 bytes)

70. solderless connectors and crimping (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 08:38:28 -0700
Hi all, For any connectors exposed to humidity, aluminum and un-plated copper really are only temporary solutions. Most high quality solderless connectors are made of tin-plated brass or copper (see
/html/shop-talk/1999-06/msg00174.html (8,722 bytes)

71. More on high quality connectors (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 09:12:03 -0700
- snip - Yes, I totally agree. The solder can "wick" up the wire causing the wire to harden (not flex) and creating a spot vulnerable to vibration induced failures. For the charging and ignition circ
/html/shop-talk/1999-06/msg00186.html (7,877 bytes)

72. Re: floors(sorry) (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:57:46 -0700
I recently used the Behr 1-part epoxy garage floor paint from Home Depot ($20/gal) and it has proven to be a waste of time and money. After fastidiously washing the floors with industrial degreaser a
/html/shop-talk/1999-05/msg00042.html (8,318 bytes)

73. Soldering guns (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 19:14:45 -0700
Now I know I am going to come out looking like some iconoclastic slack-jaw on this one, and I do have several Weller guns and irons (and they are stone reliable), but I actually prefer a Wen solderin
/html/shop-talk/1999-05/msg00111.html (7,426 bytes)

74. Re: Running air tools (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999 22:27:52 -0700
At the tank, just after the water trap and before the paint hose connector Hi all, If possible, you want at least 10 - 20 feet of iron or copper piping between your compressor and your water trap/reg
/html/shop-talk/1999-04/msg00020.html (7,615 bytes)

75. Re: Bolting Compressor to the floor (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 18:43:47 -0800
Ken, I think you will not have any problems as long as you use forced ventilation. I would mount an exhaust fan as high in the "closet" as possible, have it exhaust outdoors (the noise will not be co
/html/shop-talk/1999-03/msg00063.html (9,336 bytes)

76. Re: Pittsburgh vs. Husky tools, or why I won't buy cheap tools anymore (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 09:20:02 -0800
I know I am an coming out as the minority on this cheap tool thread, but I will not buy cheap tools, period. I know this is not a totally rational decision, but the only purchase regrets I have is wh
/html/shop-talk/1999-02/msg00011.html (10,785 bytes)

77. removing rust from an engine (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 20:06:52 -0800
Hi all, I have a TR6 engine that I just degreased, and under all that dirt and grease is a surprising amount of rust (rust on an English block?!! -- I am almost pleased, actually :) I do have a press
/html/shop-talk/1999-02/msg00067.html (7,533 bytes)

78. Re: Heating Garage (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 16:57:54 -0800
David, Might I suggest that once you insulate it, you might consider putting up peg board instead of dry wall. When I was renovating my shop, I did 1/2 of it with 3/8" thick, white peg board (it has
/html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00069.html (9,821 bytes)

79. separating head from block (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 18:18:12 -0800
Maybe I missed this, but did anybody recommend drilling out spark plugs, attaching air fittings, connect them up to your compressor and let it go (125+ psi is just about the CR of most older engines)
/html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00076.html (6,687 bytes)

80. roto saw (score: 1)
Author: Douglas Shook <shook@usc.edu>
Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 09:55:00 -0800
John, I just got one for Christmas this year and have used it to install a direct vent wall furnace. It works pretty much like a router (30K rpm), but you can cut any line or any pattern you can draw
/html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00093.html (8,016 bytes)

Current List: 61 - 80
Page: [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7]
This search system is powered by Namazu