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1. Molding adhesive suggestions (score: 1)
Author: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 15:40:47 -0800
My "LBC support vehicle" (95 Buick wagon) has (or had) thick 'rubber' molding all round, roughly 1-1/2" wide x 3/4" thick. The original glue (to aluminum molding) is giving up the ghost ... any sugge
/html/shop-talk/2005-03/msg00005.html (6,752 bytes)

2. RE: hp -> Watts? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 14:00:10 -0700
Induction motors (which is probably what your sump pump has) can draw many times their nameplate current at startup ... 3 times is a good rule of thumb but some draw as much as 8 times. I would sugg
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00008.html (8,676 bytes)

3. RE: hp -> Watts? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 14:03:19 -0700
746 watts actually, but you've forgotten to take into account motor efficiency, startup current, and phase angle (which tends to be really lousy for induction motors when they are starting). Randall
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00009.html (7,371 bytes)

4. RE: Online torque specifications (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 14:58:07 -0700
I don't know of an on-line source, but that number sounds familiar. If you want, I can check my service manual at home tonight (for 80-82 Chevy Citation, but it's the same exact drivetrain as the 81
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00012.html (7,646 bytes)

5. RE: Online torque specifications (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2004 23:54:26 -0700
On this FWD design, the outer stub axle penetrates through the center of the unitized double row bearing/hub. Thus, all the clamping force of that nut (which BTW my Chevy book says should be torqued
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00015.html (7,976 bytes)

6. RE: water pressure, was:Re: Shallow well water pumps (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:38:56 -0700
So get a decent storage tank ! It'll be a lot cheaper than building a water tower or buying booster pumps. And there's at least a fair chance you can just adjust the switch on your current pump for
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00038.html (9,538 bytes)

7. RE: Raccoon bait (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2004 21:44:00 -0700
Just a suggestion ... years ago we had a problem with a dog roaming loose in the neighborhood, and the local dog catcher refused to do anything about it. My wife called the local newspaper, got some
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00039.html (7,730 bytes)

8. RE: Sand media for sandblasting. (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 08:42:21 -0700
However, the ones I've seen at Home Depot don't have air-tight lids. I use the buckets that my pool chemical comes in ... they have screw-on lids with a gasket to seal in the chlorine fumes. Randall
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00057.html (8,008 bytes)

9. RE: water pressure, was:Re: Shallow well water pumps (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 11:10:15 -0700
I've taken showers at 25 psi and didn't have any problem ... might be worth temporarily teeing in a pressure gauge at the head and seeing just how much pressure you have under actual conditions. Cra
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00060.html (9,046 bytes)

10. RE: Fixing a leak in an oil pan. (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 16:58:54 -0700
Yup ! My first choice would be to clean the area up with solvent and smear some JB weld over the hole & surrounding area. To make it really bullet-proof, you could coat some fiberglass cloth with JB
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00085.html (7,585 bytes)

11. RE: JB Weld (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 06:37:59 -0700
JB Quick isn't nearly as strong as JB Weld. Randall
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00092.html (6,518 bytes)

12. RE: Fixing a leak in an oil pan. (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 18:11:42 -0700
In short, it won't. The area needs to be scrupulously clean of any oil or water. Multiple rub-downs with solvent, including a pass with Acryli-Clean or equivalent (to remove any silicone or car wax
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00095.html (7,426 bytes)

13. RE: Pinpoint oil bottle (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 14:35:33 -0700
"Needle oiler" is what I've heard them called. Any place that carries gun cleaning supplies should have them. Got mine at K-mart, back when they carried guns & supplies. A medical syringe and needle
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00113.html (7,856 bytes)

14. RE: fire hazards (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 07:01:08 -0700
You're not checking the right hoax site, then. http://www.snopes.com/toxins/glade.asp You're kidding, right ? Randall
/html/shop-talk/2004-06/msg00141.html (6,941 bytes)

15. RE: Winches (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 10:11:30 -0700
One other thing to check ... winches are sometimes sold where the cable is rated for less than the "first wrap" pulling power of the winch. Best practice is to have the cable rated at least 1.5 time
/html/shop-talk/2004-05/msg00035.html (7,354 bytes)

16. RE: Steering Fluid in Brake System (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 16:29:13 -0700
Bill, I don't know for certain that PS fluid will attack brake seals ... but most petro-chemicals will. Given the safety aspects of the situation, I know I would want to at least replace the seals i
/html/shop-talk/2004-05/msg00064.html (7,632 bytes)

17. RE: Upgrading Shop Electrical (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 09:22:03 -0700
A quick Google turns up http://bwcecom.belden.com/Catalog/Conduitcc/cncpchtp.htm which says that a 1" diameter conduit is allowed (by the NEC) to have a total of .35 in^2 of cable installed (with 3
/html/shop-talk/2004-05/msg00082.html (8,764 bytes)

18. RE: Upgrading Shop Electrical (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 09:29:50 -0700
I agree with that, but the post I just made is assuming that you have (or will have) a new grounding rod at the shop, appropriately wired. That's not only legal, it's preferable. I'm not absolutely
/html/shop-talk/2004-05/msg00083.html (7,758 bytes)

19. RE: GOOD Two-Line Cordless Phones? (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 10:06:32 -0700
That's because NiCads are still cheaper. That's not necessarily true, it's easy enough to build a proper charger that shuts off the flow of current once the battery is charged. But again, it's cheap
/html/shop-talk/2004-05/msg00089.html (9,795 bytes)

20. RE: Running new gas lines & gas fireplaces (score: 1)
Author: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2004 15:41:05 -0800
Funny, I've never seen a gas meter that wasn't installed with unions ! I believe the prohibition against unions is only that they must be exposed, not hidden inside a wall or whatnot. Randall
/html/shop-talk/2004-04/msg00013.html (7,670 bytes)

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