- 1. Re: [oletrucks] MII springs (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 07:04:08 -0700
- Yes you can do that but be ready for a rougher ride. What I do when someone wants the truck to sit closer to stock height is use the Heidt's Universal Mustang II Kit. All the other kits have a built
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00014.html (8,141 bytes)
- 2. Re: [oletrucks] Paint question (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 20:29:28 -0700
- I use a product from the paint store called rust mort to treat the bare metal and help prevent rust from forming. I like using the epoxy primer on my on the bare metal. Then I do my bodywork on top o
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00026.html (8,007 bytes)
- 3. Re: [oletrucks] wreck yard (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 08:18:37 -0700
- Hi Mark - Looks like a wrecking yard I could spend hours looking around. Joe oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00042.html (7,037 bytes)
- 4. Re: [oletrucks] Body Work (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 20:40:57 -0700
- I use a 9"x9" piece of plexi-glass. Makes for easy clean-up! Joe oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00094.html (7,711 bytes)
- 5. Re: [oletrucks] Turn signal help (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 21:05:15 -0700
- Hi Larry - What would you like to do? Just wire them up to extra signal lights at each corner for signals or are you wanting to have only one tail light at each rear corner and function as the stop a
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00109.html (7,458 bytes)
- 6. Re: [oletrucks] turn signal wiring (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 07:06:41 -0700
- Hi Larry - If you want to convert the 4-wire to a 7-wire you can see what you need to buy here http://50chevy.freeservers.com/ look under the electrical section. I like to grab a fuse box off the 80'
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00120.html (8,573 bytes)
- 7. Re: [oletrucks] what parts needed? (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 07:47:46 -0700
- Hi Tom - Here is my input to your questions. 1. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches if you go with the hub to hub kit. It would be nice to know the year of the rotors and calipers so when you nee
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00149.html (9,772 bytes)
- 8. Re: [oletrucks] Oregon Truck is on it's way (score: 1)
- Author: joegarcia1@comcast.net
- Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 17:11:17 +0000
- Hey that's good news! I know you can't wait for it to arrrive and get to do some driving. Joe oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00172.html (7,555 bytes)
- 9. Re: [oletrucks] Home on a rollback (score: 1)
- Author: joegarcia1@comcast.net
- Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 15:13:36 +0000
- Hi Wayne - I'm sorry to hear I was right about the rearend failure. Like I said, I had the same thing happen to me two weeks ago. Hope your back on the road soon! Joe Garcia oletrucks is devoted to C
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00218.html (8,512 bytes)
- 10. Re: [oletrucks] engine (score: 1)
- Author: joegarcia1@comcast.net
- Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 14:09:51 +0000
- Hi Robert - If you don't plan to tow anything or do much racing then the 210 Hp motor will be just fine. That 210 Hp was what my old 67 RS Camaro was rated at with a 2 barrel carburetor. Slapping on
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00359.html (7,905 bytes)
- 11. Re: [oletrucks] Inliners Convention (score: 1)
- Author: joegarcia1@comcast.net
- Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 04:54:42 +0000
- I'll have to check out the link and see what the inliners are planning. I only live 45 minutes away from Sacramento. Joe oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00370.html (7,740 bytes)
- 12. Re: [oletrucks] tilt steering column (score: 1)
- Author: joegarcia1@comcast.net
- Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 23:35:07 +0000
- I'm pretty darn sure the shaft coming out of the steering box is going to need a support bearing. You will also need to add a support bracket at the bottom of the column where it comes through the to
- /html/oletrucks/2003-08/msg00414.html (9,567 bytes)
- 13. Re: [oletrucks] Problem with Chevy Duty (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Wed, 02 Jul 2003 19:20:23 -0700
- I don't see him "Robert Mata of Chevy Duty" trying to make anyone sound stupid. I've been reading all the post and really don't know what more the guy can do or say ......aside from sending someone d
- /html/oletrucks/2003-07/msg00043.html (21,403 bytes)
- 14. Re: [oletrucks] Cable hardware (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Fri, 04 Jul 2003 08:03:07 -0700
- I believe your looking for a "Ferrule". It's an aluminum block with two holes drilled in it "one about the other". I purchase mine at the Local Hardware Store....."Orchard Supply". oletrucks is devot
- /html/oletrucks/2003-07/msg00083.html (8,096 bytes)
- 15. Re: RE: [oletrucks] Rob's horn button. (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 18:56:57 -0700
- Basically the horn circuit will take a relay. The horn button supplies the ground to close the set of points inside the relay. When the points close current flows to the horn to make it sound. If yo
- /html/oletrucks/2003-07/msg00113.html (10,284 bytes)
- 16. Re: [oletrucks] Introduction and a question (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 06:36:07 -0700
- Hi Larry If the doors on the truck have the turn down exterior handle and vent windows then it's a 1951. That's the only year they made that combination of door handle with vent window. In 1952 on up
- /html/oletrucks/2003-07/msg00145.html (9,449 bytes)
- 17. Re: [oletrucks] Cab Removal (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 08:14:46 -0700
- I would remove the emergency brake arm from the pedal so you don't bend it all up when you pull the cab off the frame. Pull the doors off to lighten the load. Joe oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM
- /html/oletrucks/2003-07/msg00234.html (7,424 bytes)
- 18. Re: [oletrucks] advice on rust treatments (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2003 18:36:02 -0700
- I like using the Eastwood "Oxisolv" as well as their "Rust ncapsulator". A friend of mine found me a few AD Cabs a while back "they were about to go to the crusher" so I took them home. They all need
- /html/oletrucks/2003-07/msg00256.html (10,719 bytes)
- 19. Re: [oletrucks] advice on rust treatments (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 07:58:39 -0700
- I will make it a point to add pictures on my website. I marked out my cuts for the chop and hope to get down to business this weekend. Joe oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 19
- /html/oletrucks/2003-07/msg00266.html (13,230 bytes)
- 20. Re: RE: [oletrucks] advice on rust treatments (score: 1)
- Author: JOE GARCIA <joegarcia1@comcast.net>
- Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 08:10:03 -0700
- Hi Jason, I'm going to chop the cab, lean back the A-pillars, move the center back window down even with the corner windows to make them all the same size, suicide the doors, smooth out the firewall,
- /html/oletrucks/2003-07/msg00267.html (10,584 bytes)
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