- 161. Any interest in GT vent window rubber? (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 09:47:25 -0700
- Unlike the roadster, these are no longer available for the GT. Karr Rubber will quote a price to make these, and I've pulled the complete frames from the '67 parts car and can send the rubber seals t
- /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00992.html (7,695 bytes)
- 162. Useless parking brake fixed! (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2000 13:46:00 -0700
- Thanks to the person who mentioned welding the actuating lever! (The original msg is on my work computer so I don't know who that was.) The lever is designed with notches on both the long arm and sho
- /html/mgs/2000-09/msg00996.html (6,922 bytes)
- 163. GT vent seals (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 08:15:43 -0700
- So far I have requests for seven sets, so I'll go ahead and get a quote. It may take a few weeks, so I'm still building a list of prospective buyers. -- Stuart MacMillan Seattle '84 Vanagon Westfalia
- /html/mgs/2000-09/msg01013.html (6,562 bytes)
- 164. Re: Any interest in GT vent window rubber? (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:49:26 -0700
- That is interesting. Their PDF catalog I just downloaded still says N/A for those part numbers. You might be on to something! I'll give them a call. -- Stuart MacMillan Seattle '84 Vanagon Westfalia
- /html/mgs/2000-09/msg01033.html (9,159 bytes)
- 165. Re: Starter confusion (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 12:59:00 -0700
- These early starters are of the "inertial" type. The starter gear is spun, and is on a threaded base. When it is spun, the gear's inertia tends to keep it still, so it is thrown up the treads until i
- /html/mgs/2000-09/msg01041.html (7,592 bytes)
- 166. Oil filters (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 13:04:35 -0700
- I've finally gone to the Trasko filtration system for both the new engines in my MGB and Vanagon, installed this summer. Only 2000 miles so far, but the oil is as clean as when it went in. After 3000
- /html/mgs/2000-09/msg01045.html (6,833 bytes)
- 167. Re: seat repacking (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:02:41 -0700
- Order the bottom seat foam and the full rubber diaphragm from your favorite supplier. Don't mess with the band type seat cushion support, the diaphram is far superior, and these parts are cheap enoug
- /html/mgs/2000-09/msg01055.html (7,492 bytes)
- 168. Storing parts (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:14:43 -0700
- I use Red Line assembly lube to coat the machined surfaces I want to protect, and then put the parts in plastic bags. They claim it will adhere for years and prevent rust. Keep in mind that cranks ca
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg00459.html (7,840 bytes)
- 169. Re: Storing parts-clarification (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:28:11 -0700
- I just wanted to clarify that I DON'T use Red Line assembly lube on the cylinder walls, that would be very bad! WD-40 and motor oil only go on the cylinders. -- Stuart MacMillan Seattle '84 Vanagon W
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg00461.html (7,739 bytes)
- 170. Re: MGB Top (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:28:53 -0700
- That is a bummer. I think you can get at the back side of the mounting holes by removing the upholstery panel. Then you could reach up and hold a nut in place to screw into. Not easy, but you should
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg00462.html (7,134 bytes)
- 171. Re: @#$%& Transmission (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 10:55:02 -0700
- At least consider rebuilding it yourself. They are pretty easy if they aren't too badly torn up. All you need is a basic tool kit, a Haynes manual, and a vise and a hammer if you are careful, but a p
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg01606.html (8,663 bytes)
- 172. Re: Peco Exhaust Question (MGB) (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 11:05:54 -0700
- I installed the "full Peco" (a la "full monty") a couple of months ago on my '65 and with the header it was a perfect fit. I have the tube shocks too, and simply by rotating/fiddling with the muffler
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg01607.html (7,567 bytes)
- 173. Valve clatter-help! (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 13:33:13 -0700
- On the newly rebuilt '68 vintage engine I recently installed in my '65 I replaced the early solid lifters with the later type bucket lifters and new Crane push rods along with installing a reground
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg01620.html (7,264 bytes)
- 174. Re: Valve clatter-help! WARNING - DISASTER LOOMS (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 08:43:02 -0700
- Wow, I've never seen anything like that either. I actually started out with the stock pushrods I picked out at a junkyard (sorry, "recycler") and I had the same noise. I bought the Crane lifters from
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg01663.html (10,002 bytes)
- 175. Re: Valve clatter-help! WARNING - DISASTER LOOMS (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:06:32 -0700
- I removed the valve cover and checked the top end oiling first thing, and it is okay, plenty of oil flowing out of the rockers down onto the pushrods. Since this appears to be a noise that is either
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg01701.html (8,395 bytes)
- 176. Re: Valve clatter-help! WARNING - DISASTER LOOMS (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 12:29:40 -0700
- The only benefit is they are supposed to be lighter and stronger. When you convert an early solid lifter engine to the bucket lifters you will need pushrods to go with them. So, it's either buy used
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg01712.html (10,900 bytes)
- 177. Re: MGA 1500: Burning oil/compression problems (Long) (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 08:57:33 -0700
- There is no doubt in my mind that you have a serious problem, I regret to say. It sounds like broken rings in #2 & #3 are a possibility with that kind of oil consumption, I can't imagine that much o
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg01754.html (15,726 bytes)
- 178. Re: B hardtop seals (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 15:25:52 -0700
- If you can't find exact replacements, Check these guys out: http://karrrubber.com/ They will most likely have something that will work. You may have to buy more than you need, just sell the rest to t
- /html/mgs/2000-08/msg01766.html (7,055 bytes)
- 179. Re: the weep of death--and radiators (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 08:10:38 -0700
- Cracked cast iron heads can be repaired by welding, but it is a bit of a specialty. I see rebuilt/welded heads for sale by some of the suppliers in Seattle, but I have no experience with them. If you
- /html/mgs/2000-07/msg00125.html (7,780 bytes)
- 180. Re: MGB-GT's (score: 1)
- Author: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
- Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 13:25:38 -0700
- David Knowles' new book "MGB" (June '99) has quite a lot of good info on the GTs, as does Clausager's book "Original MGB." There is also a Brooklands book "MGB GT 1965-1980" that contains reprints o
- /html/mgs/2000-07/msg00152.html (8,132 bytes)
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