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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*To\s+quench\s+or\s+not\s+to\s+quench\s*$/: 8 ]

Total 8 documents matching your query.

1. To quench or not to quench (score: 1)
Author: TATERRY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 14:46:22 EST
That is the question........I'm in the process of annealing the oil pipes on my NA engine. I've heard it both ways.......whats the lists advice? Kudos to Lew Palmer who suggested "Barkeeper's Friend"
/html/mg-mmm/2002-01/msg00075.html (8,212 bytes)

2. Re: To quench or not to quench (score: 1)
Author: Bullwinkle <yd3@nvc.net>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 14:14:50 -0600
To SOFTEN brass (and maybe copper) you heat it to a very dull red (lights off in a dark room) and immediately quench in water. That's the process used to anneal cartridge cases at the mouth. Do not
/html/mg-mmm/2002-01/msg00076.html (8,189 bytes)

3. RE: To quench or not to quench (score: 1)
Author: "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer@mn.mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:09:30 -0600
I've always left the pipes to cool in the open air - not quenched. But then I'm not a metallurgist. Regarding uncoiling the pipes: Cut the length you need (be somewhat generous), straighten by hand
/html/mg-mmm/2002-01/msg00079.html (9,796 bytes)

4. FW: To quench or not to quench (score: 1)
Author: "Lew Palmer" <lpalmer@mn.mediaone.net>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 15:32:29 -0600
Barkeeper's Friend does not contain ammonia. Terry is right, the main active ingredient is oxalic acid mixed with a mild abrasive powder. Lew Terry: To SOFTEN brass (and maybe copper) you heat it to
/html/mg-mmm/2002-01/msg00080.html (9,257 bytes)

5. Re: To quench or not to quench (score: 1)
Author: Bob Rich <jearich@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 18:13:12 -0700
If you keep asking questions, how do you expect the 'ead to be finished by next Wednesday? While I agree with Lew about how to straighten a shortish length of tubing, I recommend that you straighten
/html/mg-mmm/2002-01/msg00081.html (10,119 bytes)

6. Re: To quench or not to quench (score: 1)
Author: TATERRY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 20:33:33 EST
<< P.S. The tubing should be 5/32", not 1/8" >> My tubing measures .150, I guess thats close enough......trees are hard to find in my neighborhood, I'll try to tie the tubing to the mast of one of th
/html/mg-mmm/2002-01/msg00082.html (8,127 bytes)

7. Re: To quench or not to quench (score: 1)
Author: "Dave & Diana Dwyer" <dmdwyer@optusnet.com.au>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 19:37:06 +1100
I have always understood that you heat copper to bright red and quench to anneal it, ie it behaves the opposite way to steel, which is hardened by quenching. This is what I did recently when rebuild
/html/mg-mmm/2002-01/msg00087.html (8,625 bytes)

8. Re: To quench or not to quench (score: 1)
Author: "Ray" <spook01@home.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2002 07:14:09 -0600
Technique left over from 7th grade metal shop. Works well now, too...! Ray anneal it, ie it behaves the opposite way to steel, which is hardened by quenching. /// unsubscribe/change address requests
/html/mg-mmm/2002-01/msg00089.html (8,456 bytes)


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