Mostly in agreement with Randall on this one. I'm going deep into memory (so, I may surface with sludge all over me), but weren't there stories of broken cranks quite a few years ago due to the remov
Author: "Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley" <triosan@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2013 15:26:21 -0800
Te company is Jones Racing Products at : http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/ There is nothing specifically for Triumphs -- but lots of pully types and sizes, belts, etc. Mostly for Ford and Chevy,but
For what it is worth, we got 10 race weekends on our last rebuild running a damper from BFE. The crank broke between # 1 rod and front main on last race, last lap, last turn while running 1st. in EP.
Unusual spot to break because the torque rises from front to rear. So the first spot to break is the rear end with the highest load. I'm a civil engineer, so I have a small clue about forces. If the
Author: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 2013 10:52:56 -0700
There is a nasty harmonic a little over 6000 RPM that affects the crank towards the middle. It is probably the one that took out your crank. The commonly sold harmonic dampener was picked to tame the
And nitride it to try and keep the crack from starting in the first place. Chuck likes 6500 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee@aol.com _______________________________________________ f
TeriAnn, you are right. Dampers needs to be designed for purpose and not use because it fits. A wrong damper can make it worse and rise the swing at worst case. Chris --Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-- Von:
I ran nitrided cranks with NO damper for hundreds of races and countless hours in dyno time and in the end broke one crank at the usual spot before the SCCA allowed aluminum flyhweels. None of my end
Author: Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 12:55:48 -0800
I may be incorrect here, but isn't nitriding a surface harding? It helps with wear on the Bearing surfaces. The best precaution I have found regardless if its a stock crank or billet, is making sure
You are right with your statement but let me add this. With nitrate hardening you insert nitrate to the surface to make it harder. As you notice your bearings grow from that. I can t explain it prope
Yes, it is a surface hardening process. Not only does it help with wear, but it imparts a compressive residual stress profile at the radii to help combat fatigue crack initiation. Chuck wrote: with w
John, it must have been very hard to have this crankshaft failure, so close to a class win! What is BFE and what kind of damperer are they selling? Marcel, Belgium --Oorspronkelijk bericht-- Van: fot
I'm an experienced crankshaft breaker. When I started racing, I fitted the narrow V-belt conversion together with the MGB crankshaft pulley/dampener. This is the dampener sold by Moss Europe and also
Author: Tony and Annie Garmey <horizonracing@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2013 18:41:24 -0800
Couple of things to remember about Moss motors. They have a done a Phenomenal job supplying the old STREET car market with parts. You can't beat there customer service or there inventory, but having
Yeah my break with the common MGB style dampner sold today was also just behind the front main. One weekend on the crank and it broke on the warmup lap! So much work put into that crank...it was artw
Amici... In the late 1970s or early 1980s, I had a very nice TR3A street car. I had found and bought an old Judson super charger, which we installed as much to make it unique as anything else. I took
Wow, that's a memory from the past. I lived not too far away from "Start Your Engines" and spent lots of time and money with them. I moved away, and had always wondered what had happened. Thanks, Joh
Hi Ron, and no there is not. I am working on a little something though ;>) _______________________________________________ fot@autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Archive: http://www.team.net/ar