Ye, it's a blast, but a track day uses up a car pretty impressively, especially the consumables like rotors, drums, ball joints, timing chains and the like. Oh, also windshields! I'm seriously contem
assuming that your rules allow it. Production still requires a functional alternator of unrestricted origin... Toby From: Chris Coker <chriscoker@comcast.net> To: racery@comcast.net Cc: JOver4X4@aol.
We use them commercially for lots of things, since they are an approved City vendor. Perhaps not the absolute cheapest, but they have lots of useful, basic things, and we've never had any major probl
Actually, the generic 'charge air cooler' or maybe 'charge- air to ambient- air heat exchanger' probably wouldn't sell Saabs, eh? To bring this back to roadsters, one of the plumbing challenges in in
what about late '80's Saab seats? They're light, small (ish) and comfy. Lots of aftermarket stuff is available- the hard part is to find something that will fit both you and the car I think you could
heh hehmake the rack effective working length shorter than the distance between the ball joints. As to how much, that's a subject for tomes- what do you want the car to do? "Proper" geometric Ackerma
I've always done my own transmission work for just that reasonit's easy, and it seems that shops always screw it up. In fact, my 5 speed is a 'the shop screwed it up' buy for $100 that needed $7.53 w
I'm with Andy on this one if your roadster is driven harder than a Grand Tourer, you can run a reasonable amount of negative camber and have a lot more fun. And your tires won't suffer all that much.
'No Honing' rule? Shows what I never knew! I've done it to all the cylinders on the car, with no ill effects- even after 10 years. But might I suggest that you change3 your fluid annually? Toby l
1- nope, because I've never had a cover... nor any problems with 'self 2- I hope so, because (see 1) I'd like to have one sometime in the future! And sewing canvas is really hard on the old Singer...
If the fenders are indeed welded, the only 2 options would be to remove the welds, or have the door built up to fill the gap. The second, especially, is bodywork intensive. And if something happens t
poll time What is this car ACTUALLY gonna bring up here in Roadster country??? Toby who has $14,000 into his pedestrian little '68 1600, but is certain that it's really only worth $12k... heh heh he
I like the ground lead to the block, then the body bonding strap from that lug back to the body. That way, if you do lose the connection, the body will never be grounded with an ungrounded block. My
Timing also plays a large rolethe more advance you can get away with, the better your mileage, up to a point. And since timing is dynamic, a good dizzy with the right curve can make a big difference.