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References: [ +from:vze2846b@verizon.net: 331 ]

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41. Re: Differential Bearings and Trailing Arm Bolts (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2004 09:43:21 -0400; And don't forget the little extras like the TRF Summer Party, the TRF free tech line, Moss Motors Britfest and Fallfest, and support of the British Motor Heritage. Producing those impossible to find; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00126.html (9,371 bytes)
42. Re: Gear lever anti rattle detent size (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 19:29:21 -0400; Can't help with the detent button but to answer your question re the PDWA, it gets only one lead and that is from the wire harness. The ground is made where the PDWA switch contacts the bodywork. Pe; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00149.html (7,383 bytes)
43. Re: TR250 Wiper Motor/Gear Rebuilds (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2004 13:22:11 -0400; Try Mark at British Auto in Macedon, New York (800-458-4575. He did my wiper motor in 2000 and I'm very happy with the results (NFI). Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00209.html (6,872 bytes)
44. Re: fuel in oil (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2004 13:36:14 -0400; It's the float valve(s) in the carbs. One or both is sticking open and allowing fuel to flow up into the carb, down the intake, past the valves, into the chambers, then down past the rings into the; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00210.html (8,722 bytes)
45. Re: custom wood dashes for TR6 (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 17:10:26 -0400; I think you might be referring to these guys. http://pages.cthome.net/BobD/prestige_autowood_and_trim.htm Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2004-06/msg00314.html (7,071 bytes)
46. Part needed (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 06 May 2004 14:09:09 -0400; I was at a show last weekend (Britfest) and one of my pals pointed out that I have the wrong cap on my clutch master cylinder. The cap that I have is all plastic. He tells me that the original cap wa; /html/6pack/2004-05/msg00072.html (6,619 bytes)
47. Re: Question for electrical gurus (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 10 May 2004 11:03:04 -0400; Sounds like you are not getting a good connection somewhere. My bet is the ground. Try taking a wire lead from a known good ground and clipping it to the bulb holder. If this doesn't work, it is pro; /html/6pack/2004-05/msg00092.html (7,913 bytes)
48. Re: Trash in the master cylinder (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 12:27:42 -0400; The fluid in the brake booster gets there because of leaking MC seals. When you apply the brake, hydraulic pressure pushes the fluid past worn seals and into the booster. I don't believe any of that; /html/6pack/2004-05/msg00161.html (8,279 bytes)
49. Re: ignition wiring (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 15:36:00 -0400; I've got the Per on my 250. Both wires go to the coil. The red to + and the black to -. Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2004-04/msg00339.html (6,759 bytes)
50. Re: ANSA/Monza using Flowmaster (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 10:48:30 -0400; I'm not sure who told you that the dual ZS will not keep up with the head, but according to Kas "The special carburetors fitted as standard to the TR-250 and the TR-6 as delivered in the United Stat; /html/6pack/2004-04/msg00407.html (8,064 bytes)
51. Electrical issue (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 21:18:25 -0400; I finally got a chance to fire up the 250 this afternoon. Spent most of the winter doing some brake work. Anyway, no problem starting and she idled like a champ. There is an issue that I'd like some; /html/6pack/2004-04/msg00436.html (6,968 bytes)
52. Re: Electrical issue (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 10:26:58 -0400; Thanks for all the replies. I pulled the alternator and had it tested at the shop. The rectifiers and diodes are fried. He is fixing for free, but it is a big pain since the unit was rebuilt about a; /html/6pack/2004-04/msg00460.html (7,612 bytes)
53. Re: Mating British Car parts... (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 16:26:04 -0500; Hi Vance, I concur with Dick. The problem is aligning the trans in the same plane as the engine. Since your engine is lifted about as far as it will go and the mating surfaces are significantly furth; /html/6pack/2004-03/msg00019.html (8,473 bytes)
54. Re: radiator shroud (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2004 20:39:38 -0500; Try Richard Good at goodparts.com Peter '68 TR250; /html/6pack/2004-03/msg00082.html (6,826 bytes)
55. Re: Windshield Seal Repair Parts List (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 12:18:27 -0500; I recently had a glass shop replace my windscreen (no time to do it myself, plus it was covered by ins). When I asked the shop installer about sealer, he told me that these windows don't need any sea; /html/6pack/2004-03/msg00105.html (8,005 bytes)
56. Threads for brake pipes (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 23:53:12 -0500; I'm replacing the brake pipes on my 250 with new ss pipes. One of the 3 way connectors needs to have its threads chased. Can anyone tell me what size tap to use? Thanks, Peter '68 TR250 _____________; /html/6pack/2004-03/msg00132.html (6,662 bytes)
57. Re: Spin-on oil filter adaptor (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 16:17:08 -0500; I'm afraid that you're going to have to remove the adapter. It sounds like you have at least 2 o-rings in the groove. Remove the adapter and use a sharp awl to fish in the groove. You are likely to; /html/6pack/2004-03/msg00165.html (7,528 bytes)
58. Brake master cylinder (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2004 14:40:12 -0500; Since Kai can't toot his own horn on this list, I'd like to point out that he has new MCs for sale for $168. Visit his site at: http://www.wbclassics.com/. This is in reference to earlier questions a; /html/6pack/2004-03/msg00255.html (6,535 bytes)
59. Re: engine removal (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2004 23:00:08 -0500; It will come out with the cover intact. My brother and I pulled the engine and trans last time. When I was ready to reinstall into a newly painted car, he was not around, so I did it alone. My wife; /html/6pack/2004-02/msg00082.html (7,624 bytes)
60. Fuel line from tank to pump (score: 1): Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>; Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 20:36:32 -0500; I am planning to replace my brake lines with a ss kit from Classic Tubing. While I was on the phone with them, they quoted a price of $140 for the fuel line from the tank to the pump. That seems real; /html/6pack/2004-02/msg00255.html (6,725 bytes)

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