- 301. A good SS header and exhaust (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 07:00:15 -0000
- I'm with you. Surely, there must be another brand in use out there! With all the negative comments about the Rimmer system, I'm anxious to hear from someone who has actually fitted another brand. Do
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00256.html (6,976 bytes)
- 302. Re: Heritage Trim Carpet (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 17:06:58 -0000
- I purchased a wool carpet set from TRF a few years ago before they began getting their stuff from The Magic Carpet Company. It has been a huge disappointment. As I now know, wool has a tendency to s
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00315.html (7,516 bytes)
- 303. Machine screws for distributor (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 10:37:37 -0000
- I am in the process of reassembling my distributor and want to replace the machine screws holding the breaker plate to the distributor, the points to the plate and the condenser to the plate. The pro
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00331.html (7,205 bytes)
- 304. Re: Reverse lights (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 19:23:08 -0000
- Having been all over the trans in my 250 this winter, I doubt that you can get at the switch without removing the trans cover and all that is associated with it. Before you go to that trouble, I wou
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00347.html (7,372 bytes)
- 305. Re: Very Scary Noise in Rear End (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 13:43:05 -0000
- Crawl under and look at the u-joints on the drive shaft. My bet is that one is shot. Not a big deal to replace, but it helps to have the proper tools. For this one I'd use a local mechanic to instal
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00356.html (8,926 bytes)
- 306. Re: Very Scary Noise in Rear End (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:45:40 -0000
- I would add one more thing to Dick's post. If you find a "hitch" while the first wheel is off the ground, it could be one of the 2 joints on the rear axle (for that wheel) or one on the drive shaft.
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00359.html (9,114 bytes)
- 307. Re: Very Scary Noise in Rear End (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:45:40 -0000
- I would add one more thing to Dick's post. If you find a "hitch" while the first wheel is off the ground, it could be one of the 2 joints on the rear axle (for that wheel) or one on the drive shaft.
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00361.html (9,080 bytes)
- 308. Re: Seat Slide (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 17:00:02 -0000
- They are steel in natural color. The original slides have a spring loaded lever that fits into a series of holes on the lower part of the rail. The tip of this lever fitted into one of the holes is
- /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00365.html (7,522 bytes)
- 309. Re: Front Brake Fitting Kit (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2001 12:26:20 -0400
- Sounds like you have some pieces from the rear brakes mixed in with your hardware. Take a look at a diagram for the rear brakes and see if the extra springs and pins match these pictures. Regards, P
- /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00025.html (8,205 bytes)
- 310. RE: Front Brake Fitting Kit (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 09:56:48 -0400
- Don't know what the pieces could be. I have assembled the front brakes on my 250 a couple of times and never seen the parts that you mention. As far as the pads and shims, yes, they just hang there.
- /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00035.html (7,893 bytes)
- 311. Re: Steering Rack Mounts (score: 1)
- Author: Peter Macholdt <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 11:59:21 -0400
- This is a pretty straightforward job. The only issue I encountered was what to do with what I think is a steering damper button located on the left side of the steering rack. This button is normally
- /html/6pack/2001-07/msg00064.html (7,740 bytes)
- 312. Layshaft for A-type Overdrive (score: 1)
- Author: vze2846b <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 20:39:34 -0400
- I am having my A-type OD rebuilt by British Auto in New York. I trust this guy will do it right. Anyway, he just called and gave me some bad news/ good news/ bad news. The layshaft in my OD has been
- /html/6pack/2001-05/msg00038.html (7,154 bytes)
- 313. Clarification on position of layshaft (score: 1)
- Author: vze2846b <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 07:48:29 -0400
- Sorry for the confusion re the location of the layshaft. My rebuilder has already completed the OD unit and is now inside the gearbox. The layshaft he referred to is inside the gearbox. When I mentio
- /html/6pack/2001-05/msg00043.html (6,940 bytes)
- 314. Re: Fire (score: 1)
- Author: vze2846b <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 16:55:56 -0400
- I'm sorry to hear about the fire, glad the car (and you) are OK. I replaced the harness in my 250 this past winter and found it was an easy job. However, five hours seems a little short considering
- /html/6pack/2001-05/msg00070.html (7,361 bytes)
- 315. Re: gasket goop? (score: 1)
- Author: vze2846b <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 09:08:47 -0400
- I am also a big supporter of Hylomar as a sealer. However, I have always used it on both sides of the mating surfaces (gasket and metal cover). Is there a reason not to do this or is it just persona
- /html/6pack/2001-05/msg00176.html (7,782 bytes)
- 316. Re: Great 1000 mile trip! (score: 1)
- Author: vze2846b <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 11:27:22 -0400
- I'm envious. My OD is due back to me any day now and I've got several hours of work to get it back in. I'd love to be out cruising. The wiper arm has a socket that fits over the drive stub. Within t
- /html/6pack/2001-05/msg00213.html (9,253 bytes)
- 317. Re: Speedo Gem (score: 1)
- Author: vze2846b <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 20:51:10 -0400
- You will probably want to replace the old O-ring that fits between the bezel and the gauge. As Bernard mentioned, it will most likely be very stiff and brittle with age. I made a replacement o-ring
- /html/6pack/2001-04/msg00038.html (6,962 bytes)
- 318. Re: TR6 transmission leaks (long) (score: 1)
- Author: vze2846b <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 21:12:15 -0400
- I did this job last Fall and it wasn't too bad. You will have to pull off the top cover of the trans. I purchased an 8-point 5/16" socket from Sears to get the wedgloc bolts out of the shifter rods.
- /html/6pack/2001-04/msg00140.html (8,561 bytes)
- 319. Re-torque the head (score: 1)
- Author: vze2846b <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 02:45:06 -0500
- This is a pretty basic question but I'll ask anyway. Is it necessary to loosen the nuts holding the head (in the correct sequence of course) before re-torquing them? I have always done this but wonde
- /html/6pack/2001-03/msg00022.html (7,036 bytes)
- 320. Re: Front Ride height (score: 1)
- Author: vze2846b <vze2846b@verizon.net>
- Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 04:04:36 -0500
- I may be missing something here but if the floor you are measuring from is level and 3 of your 4 fender wells are at 27 inches, the fourth should also be at 27 inches. The only way to change the hei
- /html/6pack/2001-03/msg00067.html (11,158 bytes)
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