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41. Re: [6pack] U-Joint Removal (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 22:10:46 -0500; I used two sockets and a large vise as a press. One socket big enough to accept the cup, the other small enough to press it through from the other side. Be careful, if you press them too far the u-jo; /html/6pack/2008-01/msg00271.html (8,908 bytes)
42. [6pack] Aftermarket thrust washers (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 22:30:43 -0500; Look at the difference between the aftermarket variety and original equipment (AE) brand. The AE one has maybe three or four times the thickness of bronze. The AE brand came from BPNW, the aftermarke; /html/6pack/2008-01/msg00273.html (6,537 bytes)
43. Re: [6pack] Overdrive Transmission TR6 (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 21:54:33 -0500; I also put a 74 trannie in a 76. I left the switch on the right side (looking from the rear) with no wiring - this is the seatbelt interlock which was a pain in the you know what in the 74. The rever; /html/6pack/2008-01/msg00344.html (9,109 bytes)
44. Re: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 20:53:18 -0500; These are two separate cables, one from the battery to the motor mount, the other from the motor mount to the body (at least on mine...) John North _______________________________________________ Sup; /html/6pack/2008-01/msg00368.html (9,457 bytes)
45. [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 22:04:00 -0500; I procrastinated too long on engine re-assembly. Now I see the beginnings of corrosion in one of the bores. It's more like staining than rust at this point. What's the best to do? Will a quick polish; /html/6pack/2008-01/msg00387.html (6,558 bytes)
46. Re: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 19:25:08 -0500; What is it about wet or dry that makes the difference? Scratches? I will look for an appropriate hone. Always ready to buy more tools. John _______________________________________________ Support Tea; /html/6pack/2008-01/msg00399.html (9,249 bytes)
47. [6pack] Filings in GB and OD (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 15:26:20 -0500; Changing transmission oil, there are quite a few metal filings on the magnetic plug. I pulled the OD filters also, and the main screen is pretty clear, but the high pressure filter had a lot of fine; /html/6pack/2008-02/msg00018.html (7,368 bytes)
48. [6pack] Parts washers (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 19:06:37 -0500; Anyone use one of these stand-up types with the flexible hose? Normally I use a plastic bucket and kerosene, but I'm thinking about buying something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d; /html/6pack/2008-02/msg00120.html (7,950 bytes)
49. [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:49:45 -0500; Gone through all my tricks, "tapping", beating, two sockets in a vise etc trying to get the last prop shaft u-joint out of the flange. Last night I heated it up with a propane torch, still won't move; /html/6pack/2008-02/msg00182.html (6,992 bytes)
50. [6pack] Oil Gallery Plugs (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 12:16:48 -0500; Sure don't want these to leak once I get the motor back in, and these allen wrenches don't give much torque. Suggestions for a lubricant/sealant - teflon tape? Hylomar? Plain old grease? John North _; /html/6pack/2008-03/msg00116.html (6,739 bytes)
51. [6pack] Cam timing (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 13:11:40 -0400; Doing this for the first time, so forgive the basic question... The Goodparts instructions for the GP2 say to advance a few degrees for low end torque, which is what I want to do. I see how the sproc; /html/6pack/2008-03/msg00163.html (7,255 bytes)
52. [6pack] More cam timing (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 14:37:06 -0400; The cam I am installing does not measure out to spec. At 50 thou of cam lift, intake opens at 1.5 BTDC which is 2 degrees late, and duration is 229, which is +2 degrees from spec. Exhaust opens on sp; /html/6pack/2008-03/msg00207.html (7,515 bytes)
53. Re: [6pack] More cam timing (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:49:34 -0400; Surely not, Vance, this is the GP2 cam from Goodparts... Spec lobe centerline is 110. Installed straight up, I would have Intake centerline at 112.75 and Exhaust at 108.5. Installed in the advance ho; /html/6pack/2008-03/msg00210.html (7,493 bytes)
54. Re: [6pack] C - shaped piece on the steering colum ? (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 07:32:13 -0400; IIRC that is a spacer that goes on the outer column between the clamp right behind the dash and the ignition switch assembly. Perhaps this is only on the later column, and that's why it doesn't appea; /html/6pack/2008-03/msg00291.html (8,650 bytes)
55. [6pack] 02 sensor locations (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 09:04:18 -0400; Where is the best place to locate sensors... Nelson Reidell suggests in the middle of the down pipes. I have the 76 double pipe system, so I guess I need two sensors and a switch to get readings off; /html/6pack/2008-03/msg00303.html (7,002 bytes)
56. [6pack] Torquing rod bolts (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 20:03:16 -0400; I have read that these bolts should be torqued in three equal stages. Given the spec range of 38-46, I tried 20, 31 then 42. I backed off the nut between the three torques. I didn't have the guts to; /html/6pack/2008-03/msg00339.html (7,512 bytes)
57. Re: [6pack] Torquing rod bolts (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 20:36:31 -0400; These are new bolts. I did oil the threads and the head. However the old bolts torqued up just fine using this method... Not sure how I'd clean the threads in the rods at this point... John _________; /html/6pack/2008-03/msg00340.html (8,291 bytes)
58. Re: [6pack] Torquing rod bolts (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 14:45:55 -0400; To close this loop, I talked to the vendor who tested their supply and found them defective. Of course the vendor will make things right. At this point I think I'll take Dick's suggestion and look ov; /html/6pack/2008-04/msg00003.html (10,051 bytes)
59. [6pack] Long head bolts (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 14:39:26 -0400; Anyone know where the slightly longer head bolts fit? I marked them on disassembly as going on the two holes to the rear and on the oil filter side (bolts K and G in Bentley, p122), but I can't figur; /html/6pack/2008-04/msg00037.html (6,448 bytes)
60. [6pack] Tire age (score: 1): Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>; Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 18:34:18 -0400; I hear you can tell the year of manufacture from the DOT numbers... Mine are Michelin X with DOT FHTJ A8NX 111, a second has 061 and a third 152 at the end instead of 111. I know for sure these are a; /html/6pack/2008-04/msg00270.html (7,152 bytes)

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