- 241. TR6 Wiper Motor Removal (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 08:57:52 -0500
- Hello. I'm pulling some of the parts out of the engine bay so I can clean things up and re-paint. I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the wiper motor. I left my Bentley manual with the mach
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00113.html (6,903 bytes)
- 242. RE: TR6 Wiper Motor Removal (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Sat, 09 Mar 2002 10:32:43 -0500
- Thanks everybody. Got it.
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00115.html (6,661 bytes)
- 243. RE: Brake pedal return spring (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 17:32:03 -0500
- I tried to find this out a while ago also with no luck. Right now the spring rubs across the brake light switch bracket and goes to the eyelet to the left of it. That's the only place I can find. Ple
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00157.html (7,890 bytes)
- 244. RE: cam timing (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2002 22:38:07 -0500
- I bought a cam from BPNW recently. They sent a sheet describing how to set the timing. It requires a dial indicator. If you bought the Piper 270, let me know and I'll copy the instructions to you. I
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00214.html (7,014 bytes)
- 245. TR6 Carbon Canister (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2002 14:35:29 -0500
- I am busy cleaning engine bay parts in my TR6 while I wait and wait and wait for the machine shop to work on my block and head. My carbon canister was never hooked up properly. The vent from the gas
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00217.html (6,949 bytes)
- 246. RE: TR-6 Gas pedal bushing (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2002 21:08:22 -0500
- This may have been me describing the various methods I tried. Here is a copy of my posting: -- Well, I just finished the job (except for losing the throttle return spring as it flew under the car so
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00303.html (9,464 bytes)
- 247. Oil Seal Removal and Installation (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2002 19:54:17 -0500
- I am getting ready to remove the front and rear oil seals on my TR6. Is one of those seal pullers with the two hooked blades the appropriate tool to use? Any special care required to avoid damaging t
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00313.html (6,641 bytes)
- 248. When to bore, when to just hone (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:40:19 -0500
- I was at the machine shop the other day discussing work on my TR6 engine block with the machinist. He looked at the bores, felt the top for a ridge, and observed that the cross-hatch pattern was stil
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00328.html (7,316 bytes)
- 249. Orientation of oil pump drive bush (TR6) (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 17:46:15 -0500
- Thanks again, Hugh Fader
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00329.html (6,600 bytes)
- 250. RE: When to bore, when to just hone (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 18:09:58 -0500
- I just looked in the Haynes book. It says look for less than .006" difference between the bore just below the ridge and the bore at the bottom of the cylinder. Since the standard size is 2.940, I gue
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00330.html (7,114 bytes)
- 251. Lockwashers (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 20:05:58 -0500
- I have seen advice to replace every lockwasher when rebuilding your engine. My thought is to just buy a stock of them to have handy when I put my TR6 back together. It looks like I need an assortment
- /html/6pack/2002-03/msg00365.html (6,429 bytes)
- 252. Replacing seat diaphragms (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2002 18:12:54 -0500
- Hi Bill. The first seat took me a couple of hours using several different sometimes painful methods. The second seat took about 20 minutes. Here's how I did the second seat: 1. Put the seat upside do
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00015.html (8,358 bytes)
- 253. Stuck cylinder head tips (reprise) (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2002 12:48:39 -0500
- Hello all. I'm in the process of removing the cylinder head on my TR6. I have the water pump, manifolds, and all the cylinder head studs removed and the darn thing won't budge. I have tried the "turn
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00035.html (7,538 bytes)
- 254. Advice on cylinder head (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2002 19:22:26 -0500
- Over the weekend I removed the cylinder head from my TR6. The main reason is to replace leaky valve guides. The valve in the suspect cylinder was crusted over with black tar so I'm guessing this is t
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00058.html (8,033 bytes)
- 255. RE: Advice on cylinder head (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:17:36 -0500
- Thanks everyone for the well thought out advice. Based on everyone's input, I am going to postpone anything beyond the head work for a couple of years. I am still pondering CR increase and valve seat
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00081.html (6,977 bytes)
- 256. RE: Advice on cylinder head (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 19:21:43 -0500
- Sorry, I mis-typed. I meant to say bronze valve guides.
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00082.html (7,580 bytes)
- 257. RE: Valve guides (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 18:05:05 -0500
- On the way home from work, I stopped at a machine shop that was highly recommended to me. The owner told me that he did not recommend bronze guides. Said that cast iron was harder and would last long
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00107.html (6,822 bytes)
- 258. Lifting TR6 engine for cam removal (score: 1)
- Author: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: 8 Feb 2002 16:29:55 EST
- Hello. I have decided I will indeed be changing cams on my TR6. I reviewed the shop manual procedures and found that the motor mount must be loosened and the engine raised a bit to slide the cam thro
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00130.html (7,427 bytes)
- 259. RE: Lifting TR6 engine for cam removal (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 06:26:17 -0500
- Thanks Dick and everyone else that responded. I had advice (from a non-LBC guy) that I might make some kind of fixture to raise it on the oil pan flanges or something. Guess that isn't necessary. I'm
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00147.html (8,137 bytes)
- 260. Crankshaft end bolt removal (score: 1)
- Author: "Hugh Fader" <hfader@usa.net>
- Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 14:14:43 -0500
- Well. I have another stuck bolt on my TR6: the crankshaft end bolt. I have two of the radiator bolts installed and am holding it from turning with a screwdriver between these. I have sprayed the bolt
- /html/6pack/2002-02/msg00154.html (7,461 bytes)
This search system is powered by
Namazu