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101. Re: Barrett-Jackson Auction (score: 1): Author: genehart@att.net; Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 16:34:47 +0000; I want to keep this auction in mind myself, I started my restoration Feb 12 '03, and just finished everything I could. The body is at the body shop, getting a fresh coat of Pimento Red. I should be d; /html/6pack/2004-01/msg00338.html (9,193 bytes)
102. Re: British Mechanics Suck (cont.) (score: 1): Author: genehart@att.net; Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2004 18:07:04 +0000; I loved your response, You should see the look on the pros faces when they see my restoration. All they can say is something stupid, like "We'll cars were easier to fix back in those day's" or "You'; /html/6pack/2004-01/msg00342.html (7,510 bytes)
103. Re: Water pump housing color (score: 1): Author: genehart@att.net; Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 15:59:29 +0000; I did my block in a ceramic Semi Gloss Black, I have a '73 and yours should be black as well. Unless it is a factory replacement, those came in a baby blue, or sky blue color. I then had the waterpu; /html/6pack/2004-01/msg00387.html (9,066 bytes)
104. Re: Water pump housing color (score: 1): Author: genehart@att.net; Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 17:40:59 +0000; I took some steel wool to the trunk prop and the door hardware it's definetly gold anodized. As far as the other parts, I agree with you it may be just the metal color, that's why they discolor and r; /html/6pack/2004-01/msg00390.html (7,298 bytes)
105. RE: RustFreeRoadsters (score: 1): Author: "Gene Hart" <genehart@att.net>; Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 14:15:55 -0500; I just did the engine and the engine bay. I love the fact I don't have to go through sourcing and finding the correct nuts and bots. The stainless steel looks great on my newly painted engine. I did; /html/6pack/2004-01/msg00480.html (7,980 bytes)
106. RE: Rebuilding the head (score: 1): Author: genehart@att.net; Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2003 16:54:18 +0000; Just had mine done in (Jet-coat) cobalt black, including the downpipe and it looks fantastic. -- Gene Hart genehart@att.net 1973 TR6 CF10918 U (soon to be UO, thanks j.esposito) Carmine to Pimento (t; /html/6pack/2003-12/msg00072.html (9,663 bytes)
107. Engine Head question (score: 1): Author: genehart@att.net; Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 17:19:42 +0000; I'm preparing my new rebuilt engine for installation in my 6, but I may have a problem. I'm installing a CC engine from 1969, but my intake and exhaust manifolds are from my original 1973 engine. Wi; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00128.html (7,554 bytes)
108. Re: Engine Head question (score: 1): Author: genehart@att.net; Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 18:11:53 +0000; Thanks Todd, Will I have to make alot of changes on the other stuff like hoses, vacume lines and emmisions stuff? I wanted to keep it looking like the '73 I started with. -- Gene Hart genehart@att.ne; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00130.html (8,453 bytes)
109. RE: Engine Head question (score: 1): Author: "Gene Hart" <genehart@att.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 17:25:15 -0500; Thanks Vance, Some observations, and answers to your questions. I would like to keep this manifold, but I won't fit the head. But if I rebuilt my old head (from the 73) would that fit and fix my prob; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00136.html (10,502 bytes)
110. RE: Engine Head question (score: 1): Author: "Gene Hart" <genehart@att.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 23:03:26 -0500; I did notice the flywheel was lighter than the CF one. By a lot actually. The snout as you say is longer and bigger, with lots of room for the spigot bush. But the bush from my CF engine goes in too; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00142.html (10,674 bytes)
111. RE: Engine Head question (score: 1): Author: "Gene Hart" <genehart@att.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 23:13:43 -0500; How do I check to see what year head is on the CC engine? Is it just measuring the distance between the intake ports, or can I rely on a stamped number? I'm OK on the flywheel, because I have the ori; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00143.html (8,847 bytes)
112. RE: Engine Head question (score: 1): Author: "Gene Hart" <genehart@att.net>; Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2003 23:24:12 -0500; But is it difficult to remove the old cam from my CR engine, and install it in the CC engine? And if I do, should I reground, polish etc.. the cam before I install it in the CC. I just don't want to; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00144.html (9,680 bytes)
113. Re: More electrical (score: 1): Author: genehart@att.net; Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 19:21:38 +0000; Since I completely dissassembled the inside for my restoration, the answer is NO, you do not have to remove the heater core and box, actually, the wires are held in place on the front of it, and onl; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00171.html (8,374 bytes)
114. Triplex windsheild (score: 1): Author: genehart@att.net; Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 14:45:26 +0000; Thanks everyone for helping me in the Engine Head question. You guys are great, it turns out I have a newer head, so I can use my '73 setup. And that's what I'm doing. I'm looking for a Triplex winds; /html/6pack/2003-11/msg00188.html (6,630 bytes)

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