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References: [ +from:fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com: 78 ]

Total 78 documents matching your query.

1. Re: caliper pistons (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 23 Oct 2005 12:57:30 -1000
Try opening the bleed nipple that's at the back of the caliper. It still will take a little force to move the pistons back because the seals hold them pretty tight, but at least you won't be fightin
/html/6pack/2005-10/msg00228.html (8,161 bytes)

2. Re: Back up light switch access (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 12:29:31 -1000
There's really no room between the switch and transmission cover, but I was able to check the switch on mine from underneath. It sticks out from the back of the transmissionn cover on the driver sid
/html/6pack/2005-09/msg00098.html (7,233 bytes)

3. Re: brake lights not working (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 15:52:44 -1000
Hi Joe, It's probably a bad ground (i.e, no ground) caused by a bad socket. I had the same problem, which turned out to be internal corrosion between the silver prong ring that fits into the light ho
/html/6pack/2005-09/msg00159.html (9,324 bytes)

4. Re: brake lights not working (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2005 07:41:16 -1000
Thanks for the explaination, Dave. I only knew it had "Dielectric Tune-Up Grease" on the tube and you use it to keep electrical connections good. I thought it had conductive properties of somekind, b
/html/6pack/2005-09/msg00169.html (9,627 bytes)

5. Re: DIY on Speedos? (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 21:28:31 -1000
It's not too hard to do, Sean. You'll need to take the chrome ring and glass off, then unscrew the two screws at the back of the speedo. This will allow the whole mechanism to come out through the fr
/html/6pack/2005-09/msg00252.html (9,510 bytes)

6. Re: Extra brown wire (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 22:00:30 -1000
My alternator had a single brown wire (small wore size) that went on a Lucar fitting just below the multi-plug. The unit got noisy, so I replaced it with another Lucas one that didn't have that Luca
/html/6pack/2005-08/msg00219.html (7,667 bytes)

7. Re: Trickle Discharger (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2005 12:50:10 -1000
Hi Kendall, I just rebuilt a "5-wire" 17ACR alternator to replace the alternator on my 74 TR6 (I got some parts off eBay cheap). The original 18ACR alternator I took out has the same connections your
/html/6pack/2005-08/msg00304.html (10,422 bytes)

8. Re: Bonnet Release (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 12:31:34 -1000
Aloha John, I haven't seen one of the replacement bonnet release mechanisms, but if the spring that pops the bonnet up is weak, could the spring from the old one be used to replace it? (assuming the
/html/6pack/2005-08/msg00422.html (7,764 bytes)

9. Re: British Racing Green Paint Color? (Late reply) (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 13:10:02 -1000
But British Racing Green just sounds so cool, it's hard to resist! PS - The Hawaiian team from Ewa Beach just won the Little League World Series for the US against Curacao in a come-from-behind, extr
/html/6pack/2005-08/msg00443.html (8,357 bytes)

10. Re: Opinion on a possible TR6 (desc + pics) (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2004 22:36:13 -1000
Are they sure it's a '71? Details such as the dash seat belt light, spelled out controls ("LIGHTS", "WASH",), thermo switch in the top rad hose and a Delco alternator should be found on later '72 pr
/html/6pack/2004-11/msg00302.html (7,710 bytes)

11. Re: Rough running (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 20:28:13 -1000
Is the "anti run-on" valve under the carbon canister still there? It affects the vacuum across the carbs on shutdown (but I'm not sure I can describe how correctly). It may be malfunctioning during
/html/6pack/2004-08/msg00072.html (6,860 bytes)

12. 100K TR6 for sale (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 20:23:18 -1000
35 Gs for a TR5 is nothing compared to the $94K (!) TR6 I found while looking over that car sale website. Well, it does say negotiable... Check it out: http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/
/html/6pack/2004-06/msg00153.html (8,488 bytes)

13. Volvo OD Identification (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 20:04:11 -1000
In a fit of eBay madness, I got a late Volvo overdrive repair booklet (cheap). It's actually not as good as Triumph workshop manuals, but there is an "Applications" list with Laycock Nos and dates. I
/html/6pack/2004-06/msg00252.html (8,047 bytes)

14. Re: vacuum retard (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 22:23:44 -1000
I read Dick's reply and wonder if the vacuum lines to the thermo switch could be hooked up "backwards? -- Original Message -- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor@webtv.net> To: <DaCRANEz@aol.com
/html/6pack/2004-05/msg00031.html (9,611 bytes)

15. Re: vacuum retard (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 3 May 2004 22:38:58 -1000
I hope this time I can finish the thought before I hit the combination of wrong keys that sends the message again... The purpose of the thermo switch was to block the vacuum retard if the engine over
/html/6pack/2004-05/msg00032.html (8,042 bytes)

16. Re: Diff. bracket cracks (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 17:33:02 +0600
I just had diff mount reinforcements welded in to fix a broken RF mount. The "U" bracket was cracked completely across with the pin was loose at the top as well. The TRF kit (and the others I imagin
/html/6pack/2004-04/msg00195.html (10,165 bytes)

17. Re: 1974 TR6 doesn't crank (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 21:08:52 +0600
I know what you mean Ali - 74 was the first year of the "no seat belt - no start" US safety rule, and Triumph solved it with the seatbelt module mounted on the inside passenger bulkhead. On mine, I t
/html/6pack/2004-04/msg00201.html (7,646 bytes)

18. Re: Anti-run-on valve (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 23:03:56 +0600
Jon - As for as I know, it doesn't matter since electrically it's just a simple solenoid. Power goes to one post, flows through the windings of the solenoid coil, and then to ground via the other pos
/html/6pack/2003-11/msg00027.html (7,556 bytes)

19. Re: Exhaust valve spring "caps" (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 15:23:00 +0600
It's pretty low tech, but you could put the piston at 'bottom' dead center, push some soft nylon or cotton cord into the bore, then raise the piston up so that the bunched-up cord pushes up on the v
/html/6pack/2003-11/msg00037.html (8,502 bytes)

20. Re: Exhaust valve spring "caps" (score: 1)
Author: "Jeff Fetner" <fetnerj001@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 16:58:39 +0600
You're so right. I used the 'cord-in-the-cylinder' trick to get a reluctant head off my six. The way things usually go when I work on it, if there is a way to go wrong it will! Guess I was thinking
/html/6pack/2003-11/msg00040.html (7,746 bytes)

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