I would be more concerned about burn out if the resistance was less, not more.
More resistance likely means more wire or coils in the pickup, probably being
more sensitive, a good thing. And more resistance means less current flow.
Might change the timing if it 'sees' the trigger sooner.
Then, too, your old broken one measuring 0 ohms means the windings shorted.
Maybe 350 ohms means it's on it's way out, and 750 is the right number.
Jim
1957 MGA #311
-----Original Message-----
From: "Don Marshall" <ofbracing@nefcom.net>
Subj: [Vintage-race] Distributor help
Date: Wed May 28, 2008 5:26 pm
Size: 1K
To: "FOT" <FOT@autox.team.net>, "'Vintage Race
Net'"<vintage-race@autox.team.net>
I use a modified '79 Honda Accord distributor in my TR4 and I'm hoping
that there might be an electronic distributor expert on the lists who
can tell me if I'm doing a repair correctly. During the last outing at
VIR my distributor quit, and had zero resistance at the internal pickup
coil (the two leads from the dizzy that go to the ignition box). I
replaced it with a spare distributor and finished the weekend but now I
need to repair the broken unit. Since I know the pickup coil was bad
(no resistance vs 372 ohms resistance on the good spare), I ordered a
replacement pickup coil from Autozone that matches perfectly except the
resistance on the new coil is 750 ohms, almost double what's in the
working spare. According to everything I can find on the internet, 750
is correct resistance for that distributor, but since its double what's
in the other one I'm curious/concerned about whether I have the right
one. Or, the real question might be "Does the resistance of the pickup
coil really matter?" Any help will be appreciated. I hate to put it in
the car and burn out the new $50 pickup coil because it's the wrong one.
Thanks, Don
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