----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Dent" <lwdent@fwi.com>
To: "TONY CLARK" <lotus.tony@airmail.net>
Cc: <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2002 10:06 PM
Subject: Re: Winter Project Painting My Trailer
>>> I have not done a lot of painting lately, but I seem to recall that
Phosphoric needs to be neutralized with water or a final wash of a chemical
that puts a true phosphate coating on the metal. Can't remember the name but
used a lot of it some years back. Any phosphoric left, espec in cracks, and not
neutralized will cause
problems, I think.<<
Larry, I'm no chemist but the "RustPrime" product directions do not
recommend ANY sort of neutralization or even washing after using . . . the only
step after an overnight reaction is to brush off any white powder residue and
wipe with a rag saturated with RustPrime. The ingredient list indicates wetting
agents, extenders and phosphoric acid . . perhaps there is some buffering action
as well. It ostensibly converts the oxide to a phosphate which is stable. I
mentioned a couple of trailers I've painted but the real convincer for me was
it's use in the restoration of several pieces of antique tractor and
equipment. . . some had been weather-exposed for its entire life . . .there was
NO evidence of paint remaining. . . .
total rust. The meager amount of sheet metal was properly sanded to bare
metal, primed and painted but ALL the rest of the steel and cast chassis was
merely descaled and RustPrimed before color coat . . . there's been no bleeding
from cracks and no new rusting except a few places I missed in treatment and
painting (underneath) Again, we were talking trailer type painting. I wouldn't
be painting over any sign of rust on an auto body and I would want
to use the self-etch primers over any bare metal exposed as you suggest . .
Give it a try on any project that doesn't justify a blast and prime involvement
. . .works for me.
Tony
1927 Caterpillar Fifteen
5 Lotus sports and race cars
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