Bear with me if I've got this wrong in some of the details, but I seem to
recall getting a newsletter from (I think) VSCDA - the group who run the
Gratton race, in any case - that mentioned something about not allowing
Nylock nuts on any suspension component. Since my car uses Nylock style
nuts virtually every where, on the advice garnered from the Smith "Screw to
Win" book, I thought I'd ask for clarification and recommendations. I can
get metal deforming lock nuts locally, but they tend to deform the end
threads on whatever they are bolted on to, and some of these threads are on
the actual part, not a bolt that could be easily replaced. The vast
majority of the applications in the suspension see no heat buildup
what-so-ever - they hold suspension links to the chassis or the uprights,
and so on, so I don't see the problem. The note, as I recall, discussed
using castle nuts and cotter pins, which I do for the nuts that hold the
bearing hub on the axle, where you will see some heat, but I can't see
drilling all of the 5/16", and smaller bolts that hold my sway bars on to
accept cotter pins, and I have no idea where to get all of the castle
nuts! I've looked into getting jet nuts, but they seem a tad OTT to
me. The replacement ball joints that you get these days use nylock nuts as
stock in most cases - only the really old stock still have castle nuts.
Any thoughts, anyone?
Cheers, Brian
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