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VSCDA rule on Nylock nuts

To: vintage-race@autox.team.net
Subject: VSCDA rule on Nylock nuts
From: Brian Evans <brian@uunet.ca>
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 09:49:36 -0500
Bear with me if I've got this wrong in some of the details, but I seem to 
recall getting a newsletter from (I think) VSCDA - the group who run the 
Gratton race, in any case - that mentioned something about not allowing 
Nylock nuts on any suspension component.  Since my car uses Nylock style 
nuts virtually every where, on the advice garnered from the Smith "Screw to 
Win" book, I thought I'd ask for clarification and recommendations.  I can 
get metal deforming lock nuts locally, but they tend to deform the end 
threads on whatever they are bolted on to, and some of these threads are on 
the actual part, not a bolt that could be easily replaced.  The vast 
majority of the applications in the suspension see no heat buildup 
what-so-ever - they hold suspension links to the chassis or the uprights, 
and so on, so I don't see the problem.  The note, as I recall, discussed 
using castle nuts and cotter pins, which I do for the nuts that hold the 
bearing hub on the axle, where you will see some heat, but I can't see 
drilling all of the 5/16", and smaller bolts that hold my sway bars on to 
accept cotter pins, and I have no idea where to get all of the castle 
nuts!  I've looked into getting jet nuts, but they seem a tad OTT to 
me.  The replacement ball joints that you get these days use nylock nuts as 
stock in most cases - only the really old stock still have castle nuts.

Any thoughts, anyone?

Cheers, Brian

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