Kind of depends what you're going to do with it, and what tires you'll
run. Positive camber used to be very common when bias ply street tires
were the norm - it induced very dependable final understeer (wherein you
get to see what you're about to hit), which is always safer for street cars
- you can correct by simply letting off the throttle, which is the normal
unskilled reaction. If this is to be a street car on bias ply tires, why
not stay with what was stock? if you're going to have a street car on
radials, I'd go for zero camber as you've been advised. If this is to be a
race car on modern bias ply racing tires, I'd start with 1.5 deg.
negative. If modern performance radials and racing, maybe up to 2.5 deg
negative.
Brian
At 01:17 PM 09/05/2000 -0400, John Cowan wrote:
> My '60 TR-3A is in a body shop to have the frame straightened and two
>cracks welded. Both the frame guy and my mechanic say the static laden
>camber for the front wheels should be set to 0 degrees.
> However, I found a note in the shop manual indicating that static
>laden camber should be 2 degrees positive. It also says the camber at full
>bump will be 1/2 degree and at full droop, 1 degree.
> I find the manual info to be puzzling and at odds with my limited
>understanding of suspension geometry, so I'm inclined to go with the advice
>I have been given.
> Does anyone have any thoughts on this problem?
>Thanks.
> John Cowan
>
> Forward this review to a friend. To subscribe, send email to:
>jfcowan@pacbell.net. Check out previous reviews at:
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Brian Evans
Director, Strategic Accounts
UUNET, A WorldCom Company
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