Ach! All right, I finally put on my trouble shooting hat and went into it.
Looks like the original 1959 control head isn't letting the power through to
the lamps. My fault. Because I needed the garage to rebuild a '53 Ford
Tractor, I left the Triumph outside under a tarp all winter...albeit with a
wedge of mothballs both under the car and under the brake pedals. Pulled it
from its slumber this week and found mold on the underside of the tonneau cover
and a film of surface rust on the bonnet rode and asundry other places I hadn't
seen it before when stored in the garage. My sense is, the predisposition to
corrosion that had always been present, went wild under the tarp outside this
winter. Anyway, I didn't feel like taking the control head apart in order to
sand off any corrosion that was causing the directional signals not to work, so
ordered a new one (on sale now at TRF) from the Roadster Factory.
Randall, thank you again for your always pragmatic and data driven analysis.
Good news, field mice didn't eat anything on the car this time.
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
\
> On April 4, 2020 at 11:11 PM Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > First, I'm wondering if the choice for flasher may depend on
> > the type of LED conversion (or not).
>
> Seems unlikely to me. There isn't all that much difference (electrically)
> between different LED conversions.
>
> But since I went with the flasher I had before and dummy loads to make it
> work right, I don't know for sure.
>
> > Second, a question. I'm not getting right directionals to
> > work front or back. This could be the directional switch on
> > the column, an open wire, or...and here's the question...if
> > an LED is burned out, can it cause both directionals in the
> > circuit to be inoperable?
>
> It _might_ cause the flasher to not work, there must be some minimum load
> below which it won't flash.
>
> > I've hooked power direct from the
> > battery to both left and right directionals at the point they
> > enter the flasher. The Left directional lights up front and
> > back. The Right directional does neither.
>
> I'm not sure I follow you here. But a simple test is to install a temporary
> jumper in place of the flasher, linking the green wire (B terminal on the
> flasher) to the green/black wire (L terminal). That should let each lamp
> work (with the key on and the control head switch in the appropriate
> position) with no reliance on any other lamp.
>
> Or just look for the green/white wires where they join near the LH horn.
> Use a test light or DMM to check for voltage on the GW that comes from the
> steering box (again, switches on). If there is nothing there, the problem
> is the GW wire or the control head.
>
> BTW, I put a diagram up at https://i.imgur.com/OvngNNl.jpg that shows the
> correct turn wiring for a later left-hand steer TR3A. I've not seen
> anywhere else that has it just right (including the Advance Auto Wire
> diagram). The LHS diagram is also on page 48a of the PDF at
> https://tinyurl.com/urhvjbn
>
> -- Randall
>
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