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On 1/28/2020 4:57 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> i guess then when sitting in the parking lot doing nothing. i want the
> switch closed.
> after i start the motor and the lights come on i want the switch to open
>
>
>
After reading your intended use, it seems to me that the simplest and
safest way to solve this problem is to fix the original fault. Despite
what you say about the dealer being unable to find the problem, it's not
rocket science. I'm assuming that the key on this car only operates the
locks from the outside with an rf signal and does not have a metal key
on the remote (affixes to the ignition switch magnetically).
If the turn signals flash when you operate the remote, then the rf
circuit is powered and is working. Do the door locks work when the
interior lock buttons are pushed? If so, that means the door lock
solenoids are working and the relay is operating.
That means that there's problem in the computer that runs the body
circuits or the door lock relay isn't getting a signal from the
computer, but it is getting it from the interior switch. Typically,
these circuits have a dedicated driver in the computer that outputs
enough current to pull in the relay (50-75 mA). If that driver is bad,
the computer can't pull in the relay. If the door lock relay is run by
both the manual switch and the computer, it's likely that the two
circuits are isolated by diodes. A blown diode in the computer side of
the circuit will prevent it from actuating the locks, as will a physical
break in the wiring from the computer to the relay. It can also be a
break in the wiring that sends a signal from the rf receiver to the
computer.
Too many shops today depend too heavily on scanners, and this sounds
like a problem that requires some old-fashioned circuit tracing and
fault-elimination logic.
The problem I see about your jiggered switch arrangement is that the
locks have to operate in two modes, locking and unlocking, and the relay
used is probably a center-off, momentary switching type. Trying to
booger up the circuit with a secondary switch may make things worse, not
better. Do you know if the wiring schematics for this model and year
are available online? That would be a big help, knowing what's
installed, rather than guessing.
Cheers.
--
Michael Porter
Roswell, NM
Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/28/2020 4:57 PM, Frank Fisher
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:526992642.488060.1580255830439@mail.yahoo.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div class="ydpeda9aec2yahoo-style-wrap"
style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial,
sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">i guess then when sitting in
the parking lot doing nothing. i want the switch closed.</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">after i start the motor and
the lights come on i want the switch to open</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p>After reading your intended use, it seems to me that the simplest
and safest way to solve this problem is to fix the original
fault. Despite what you say about the dealer being unable to find
the problem, it's not rocket science. I'm assuming that the key
on this car only operates the locks from the outside with an rf
signal and does not have a metal key on the remote (affixes to the
ignition switch magnetically). Â <br>
</p>
<p>If the turn signals flash when you operate the remote, then the
rf circuit is powered and is working. Do the door locks work when
the interior lock buttons are pushed? If so, that means the door
lock solenoids are working and the relay is operating. <br>
</p>
<p>That means that there's problem in the computer that runs the
body circuits or the door lock relay isn't getting a signal from
the computer, but it is getting it from the interior switch.Â
Typically, these circuits have a dedicated driver in the computer
that outputs enough current to pull in the relay (50-75 mA). If
that driver is bad, the computer can't pull in the relay. If the
door lock relay is run by both the manual switch and the computer,
it's likely that the two circuits are isolated by diodes. A blown
diode in the computer side of the circuit will prevent it from
actuating the locks, as will a physical break in the wiring from
the computer to the relay. It can also be a break in the wiring
that sends a signal from the rf receiver to the computer.<br>
</p>
<p>Too many shops today depend too heavily on scanners, and this
sounds like a problem that requires some old-fashioned circuit
tracing and fault-elimination logic. <br>
</p>
<p>The problem I see about your jiggered switch arrangement is that
the locks have to operate in two modes, locking and unlocking, and
the relay used is probably a center-off, momentary switching
type. Trying to booger up the circuit with a secondary switch may
make things worse, not better. Do you know if the wiring
schematics for this model and year are available online? That
would be a big help, knowing what's installed, rather than
guessing.</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Cheers.<br>
</p>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">--
Michael Porter
Roswell, NM
Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
distance....</pre>
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