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If you have standard thread screws holding the dashpot covers on the Strombe=
rg carbs in your Stag - that could explain why they are hard to come out. ;=
-)
I just pulled one out of a Stag carb and in turns quite easily into an M5 0.=
8 thread checker. Since this came up today, I=E2=80=99ve done the same with T=
R6 carbs, TR7 carbs, TR8 carbs, and some new screws I pulled out of the bag t=
hey came from Moss in. They all have the same part number and they are all M=
5 0.8. Same part number for all CD 175s and the CD 150s on GT6s
I did not know this until it came up today - I=E2=80=99ve always ordered the=
correct part - after rebuilding hundreds of these carbs, I knew they weren=E2=
=80=99t SAE, but I always figured they were Whitworth or British Standard - o=
r something odd like that - I was as surprised as anybody when they turned e=
asily into an M5 0.8 thread checker.
If you still don=E2=80=99t believe me, I can send pictures.
Cheers,
Jack Mc
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 1, 2018, at 4:51 PM, Sujit Roy <triumphstag@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> The Stag has ZS carbs. Those screws are pozi drive heads. But the screws d=
on't show that pozi. drive symbol on the head. Standard not metric. Some of m=
ine were buggered by POs. Trying to remove them with standard Philips screw d=
river
>=20
> Sujit
>=20
> 71 Stag
>=20
>> On Mon, Oct 1, 2018, 11:02 AM Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live.com> wrote=
:
>> David,
>>=20
>> See if a #10 or #8 machine thread works. It is one of these, but I don't=
remember which. I always buy new bolts and lock washers from the hardware s=
tore for carb top covers. You can buy stainless. And it doesn't cost as mu=
ch.
>>=20
>> My friend had metric size bolts holding his carb tops on his TR8. I susp=
ect that was because a previous owner put them in because they were close in=
size and he just forced them in because they were into aluminum.
>>=20
>> What are you referring to for damper 0-rings? If you are referring to th=
e tiny one at the bottom of the dashpot that holds the dashpot oil around th=
e metering needle, then yes that is a standard size o-ring that you can buy.=
The o-ring around the fuel reservoir plug is standard and can be bought to=
o.
>>=20
>> Creig
>> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of davgil@aol.=
com <davgil@aol.com>
>> Sent: Monday, October 1, 2018 8:44 AM
>> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] ZS 175 carbs
>> =20
>> I worked on the carbs on my 1976 TR6 this weekend, one of the needle adju=
stments screws moved and I was able to lean the carb I needed for some impro=
vement. A couple of questions, does anyone know the specs on the screws hol=
ding the top cover to the body of the carb? Someone (not me - honest) bugge=
red them up and I had to cut a slot on one to back it out. I would like to j=
ust replace them all. Moss has them at $1.89 apiece but that seems a bit mu=
ch. I had a couple of screws in my loose screw bin that looked correct but d=
id not seem to fully thread into the carb body and I didn't want to force th=
em and ruin the threads. Also, if the damper o-rings are a standard size th=
at I can pick up at a local FLAPS instead of ordering them, i would apprecia=
te knowing the specs on those as well. =20
>> Thanks
>> David Gill
>> 1976 TR6
>> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/arch=
ive
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triump=
hstag@gmail.com
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgahey=
rx@aol.com
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">If you have standard thread screws holding t=
he dashpot covers on the Stromberg carbs in your Stag - that could explain w=
hy they are hard to come out. ;-)<div><br></div><div>I just pulled one=
out of a Stag carb and in turns quite easily into an M5 0.8 thread checker.=
Since this came up today, I=E2=80=99ve done the same with TR6 carbs, TR7 ca=
rbs, TR8 carbs, and some new screws I pulled out of the bag they came from M=
oss in. They all have the same part number and they are all M5 0.8. Same par=
t number for all CD 175s and the CD 150s on GT6s</div><div><br></div><div>I d=
id not know this until it came up today - I=E2=80=99ve always ordered the co=
rrect part - after rebuilding hundreds of these carbs, I knew they weren=E2=80=
=99t SAE, but I always figured they were Whitworth or British Standard - or s=
omething odd like that - I was as surprised as anybody when they turned easi=
ly into an M5 0.8 thread checker.</div><div><br></div><div>If you still don=E2=
=80=99t believe me, I can send pictures.</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</d=
iv><div>Jack Mc</div><div><br></div><div><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature">=
Sent from my iPad</div><div><br>On Oct 1, 2018, at 4:51 PM, Sujit Roy <<a=
href=3D"mailto:triumphstag@gmail.com";>triumphstag@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<=
br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div dir=3D"auto">The Stag has Z=
S carbs. Those screws are pozi drive heads. But the screws don't show that p=
ozi. drive symbol on the head. Standard not metric. Some of mine were bugger=
ed by POs. Trying to remove them with standard Philips screw driver<div dir=3D=
"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Sujit</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">71 Stag</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D=
"ltr">On Mon, Oct 1, 2018, 11:02 AM Creig Houghtaling <<a href=3D"mailto:=
creig555@live.com">creig555@live.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote cla=
ss=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;pad=
ding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
David,</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
See if a #10 or #8 machine thread works. It is one of these, but I don=
't remember which. I always buy new bolts and lock washers from the ha=
rdware store for carb top covers. You can buy stainless. And it d=
oesn't cost as much.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
My friend had metric size bolts holding his carb tops on his TR8. I su=
spect that was because a previous owner put them in because they were close i=
n size and he just forced them in because they were into aluminum.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
What are you referring to for damper 0-rings? If you are referring to t=
he tiny one at the bottom of the dashpot that holds the dashpot oil around t=
he metering needle, then yes that is a standard size o-ring that you can buy=
. The o-ring around the fuel reservoir
plug is standard and can be bought too.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
Creig</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font=
-size:12pt">
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_-8950837643176549286divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font color=3D"#=
000000" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> T=
riumphs <<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_bl=
ank" rel=3D"noreferrer">triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of=
<a href=3D"mailto:davgil@aol.com"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">davg=
il@aol.com</a> <<a href=3D"mailto:davgil@aol.com"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D=
"noreferrer">davgil@aol.com</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 1, 2018 8:44 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D=
"noreferrer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] ZS 175 carbs</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div><font color=3D"black" face=3D"arial" size=3D"2">
<div><font size=3D"2">I worked on the carbs on my 1976 TR6 this weekend, one=
of the needle adjustments screws moved and I was able to lean the carb I ne=
eded for some improvement. A couple of questions, does anyone know the=
specs on the screws holding the top
cover to the body of the carb? Someone (not me - honest) buggered the=
m up and I had to cut a slot on one to back it out. I would like to ju=
st replace them all. Moss has them at $1.89 apiece but that seems a bi=
t much. I had a couple of screws in my loose
screw bin that looked correct but did not seem to fully thread into the car=
b body and I didn't want to force them and ruin the threads. Also, if t=
he damper o-rings are a standard size that I can pick up at a local FLAPS in=
stead of ordering them, i would appreciate
knowing the specs on those as well. <br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">Thanks</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">David Gill</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2">1976 TR6</font><br>
</div>
</font></div>
</div>
** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noref=
errer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br>
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