The book (TR6 workshop manual) says to put the shift lever in each gate,
tighten the pin on that side until it just starts to move the lever, then
back off a half turn and tighten the locknut. Seemed to work fine on my
Stags (which have a similar lever).
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffZTJaeXJhWllGWnc
Sounds like you might need to add the locknuts, or snug them up a bit
tighter. Not sure I'd want to use Loctite with only those screw slots to
take them loose.
AFAIK, all vendors sell ordinary O-rings for the shift rails, which don't
fit very well as the cavities are deeper than the rings. Herman van den
Akker told me (long ago) that he machined brass washers to fill the space.
But I found some "O-ring Backup Rings" at MMC that fill the space nicely and
make the standard O-rings seal very well. I bought the Teflon version, but
I assume the Buna-N ones would work just as well. Sorry I don't recall the
size offhand, but I'm sure you can work it out.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1e82oxx
(about 2/3 down)
I had to buy a bag of 50; I'd be happy to share except I won't be back there
for a couple months yet (and I'm not absolutely sure where that bag is).
On the taper pins, it seemed to help to get an 8-point socket to fit, then
use a T-handle wrench with both hands so there's no side force on the pin.
But I still broke several, and had to salvage them from another gearbox (an
earlier one without those stupid nylon inserts in the pins).
-- Randall
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