Ron,
Can you send a picture of what you did??
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Mark Craig
Diesel Performance Parts, Inc.
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From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron KRANTZ via Fot
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 4:36 PM
To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>; FOT <FOT at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Failed Parts Alert
This is my fix. I broke the verticle link shown in 1982 at Mid-O. The thread
on the OE part is 10 threads per inch and so I turned the piece shown so it fit
all the way to the top of the machined link and then turned the bottom of the
treads off to fit a heim joint. I threaded the OE lube hole all the way to the
top and use a long bolt (forget the actual size and length). So the result is
similar to the Canley piece except I made mine in 1982. The original pieces I
made are still on the car today. But I did make a spare set that are still on
the shelf.
I?ve been using the trunnionless front suspension vertical link on my GT6 that
Canley Classics sells for the past two years. I?ve now had two fail the annual
magnaflux tests. They cracked in different locations, one right at the
machining line for the flat for the stub axle nut, on the back side where the
steering arm passes through, and one on the upright at what appeared to be a
casting mark, near the bump you see in the photo below. Neither crack was
visible to the eye. The upright Canley sells no longer looks exactly like the
photo - it now has a machined area on the back side, away from the wheel, much
like stock ones. Maybe I just had bad luck, but between two cracks and some
binding issues at the ball joint I had to rectify, I would no longer recommend
these.
I started using the Canley units when the stock ones developed cracks in the
traditional place at the top end of the threads where the trunnion is.
I have now installed uprights I got from Jigsaw Racing
https://jigsawracingservices.com - Mark Field, in England. The main difference
from stock is they are not drilled for a grease fitting or grease boring down
into the trunnion, which should make them stronger where the stock ones usually
fail. Mark races Spitfires and GT6s for himself and for customers in vintage
racing and claims he has never had a failure. He further claims that the units
are made in the original forging molds and by the same people that made the
Stanpart units.
Main point is, even though it?s a pain, pull your critical parts off and get
them magnafluxed at least once in a while. I?ve become paranoid and this is
now an annual exercise. The machine shop I go to usually does it for free
while I am watching, probably because I?m usually dropping off engine parts
where the real dollars get spent!
[cid:image006.png at 01D3EC1C.D11E2710]
_______________________________________________
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